Finally, an Ossington spot as full of fish as every other west-end
restaurant is of meat.
Call it nose-to-fin eating. Fishbar,
newly opened by William Tavares (Le Gourmand, Salt), has every kind of
(mostly) sustainable fish in the sea, from wee smelts ($6) to whole
grilled sardines ($7) to tuna loin ($13). Even the drinks are fishy; why
isn’t every Caesar a shrimp Caesar? Wine list is decent; oysters are
musky and fresh.
Dishes are best enjoyed tapas-style, with friends. My favourite? A tangy
trout rillette with more crostini on demand. Servers are still getting
their sea legs, but food-wise, Fishbar is swimming. SNP
217 Ossington Ave., Toronto, 647-340-0227, www.fishbar.ca
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