From A to Zagreb

Croatian capital Zagreb is fun, walkable and getting ready for EU
membership and prices are as friendly as the locals. Here are some
highlights from a recent visit.

eat

Walking into the second-floor apartment that houses raw-food restaurant Kredenca
(pictured) is like stepping into an Anthropologie catalogue,except it
comes with flowing wine and perfectly styled dishes like sushi rolls
with daikon rice and chocolate palainke that’s Croatian-style crepes
with a fresh berry sauce. Other favourites included a poppy seed pastry
from all-natural bakery Ivica
i Marica and fresh roasted chestnuts bought from a street vendor.

drink

Wine lovers will want to stop in at Vinodol
to sample its extensive list of Croatian wines. Or head to brewpub Mali
Medo on a pedestrian street in the upper town for its five varieties
of locally made beer, classic central European food (think sausages,
noodles and breaded fried cheese) and, as the night goes on, to sample
its homemade medica, or honey brandy.

shop

Stock up on local wine and olive oil at Vinoteka
Bornstein (pictured), where you’re bound to pick up an education in
Croatian wine from the expert owners while you shop. For a purchase
that’ll last longer, visit gallery Likum
to browse the selection of Croatian art. Fragrance addicts will want to
pop around the corner to the Institut
Parfumeur Flores, the country’s first niche parfumerie, which sells
scents from more than 90 brands as well as other products that, well,
smell good.

see

Head up the funicular to the upper town and two small but must-see
museums. The Croatian
Museum of Naive Art showcases local and international artists of
this so-called "primitive" but beyond gorgeous style of untrained
artists. Down the street, the ubercreative Museum
of Broken Relationships collects objects and stories from the
world’s love affairs gone wrong, like this red coat once received as a
gift "I never really cared for red," the caption tells us.

caffeinate

Zagreb’s patio scene is crowded with umbrella-shaded tables and chairs
where you can order local favourite kava sa lagom espresso with whipped
cream. But for the city’s best coffee the New York Times said so!
be sure to stop in at microroastery
and espresso bar Eliscaffe, which even has locally scarce takeout
cups and whose owner prepared us the perfect cappuccino while singing
the praises of Toronto’s coffee scene. How could we help but love him?

Kat Tancock