Taking your kids to Paris? Read this first! Or, How do you say umbrella
stroller in French?
DAY 1
Get your bearings with day passes for the BatoBus,
sightseeing boats that stop every 15 minutes along the Seine so you can
hop on and off at all the major monuments ($15 Euros/day). Its the best
way to get the pretty and sprawling Jardins Des Plantes with its
Menagerie (the oldest zoo in the world opened in 1794). Dont miss
Nenette, the famous 40 year-old orangutan. Hint: if you go just before
closing at 5, you can see the cats get fed whole chickens. Menagerie Du
Jardins Des Plantes 9 Euros/7 Euros.
DAY 2
The LOuvre and Musee DOrsay are for a different trip. To get your
culture fix, head to the Centre
Pompidou, the famous inside-out art gallery. The very best view of
Paris is from its rooftop café (try the Vietnamese spring rolls) and
there are lots of free activities for kids in and around the lobby and
grounds, plus a great gift shop. www.centrepompidouparis.com
DAY 3
Hands down my favourite afternoon was spent at the stunning Jardins
Luxemburg. Check out the art exhibits in its Orangerie, ponder the
immaculate topiaries, and make sure to rent the affordable wooden boats
(pictured) for your kids to play with in the main fountain. There is a
pretty garden and wading pool just for kids under 5, which makes a nice
oasis for a picnic from nearby Le Petit Luxe (2 Rue de Vaugirard) which
has inventive take-away salads and sandwiches for just 3 Euros (hence
line-ups).
DAY 4
If your local science centre were designed by Philippe Starck and housed
in a massive sculpture park, you are beginning to get a sense of the
sheer scale and scope of Paris Cite
des Enfants. We wished we had a whole day to explore inside and out,
but at the very least take them to the main science experiences where
they can work in a water factory, play with a light wall, collaborate in
a kiddie construction site and stimulate their growing grey matter. Cite
Des Sciences, www.cite-sciences.fr
Sarah Bancroft
PRACTICAL TIPS
Apps
Download the app GoGo
Paris for great dining and shopping recommendations by
neighbourhood, plus opening hours (very useful). www.gogoparis.com
Babysitting
Even the best parents deserve a date night in Paris. We used the
babysitting service Baby
Chou and met a wonderful English-speaking au pair named Aude. Ask
for her! It is better to phone rather than book online. 9 Euros/hour
plus agency fee. 01 43 65 58 58, www.babychou.com
Getting Around
Be prepared to carry strollers up and down Metro stairs and wait for
grumpy attendants to open access doors beside the turnstiles. For
shorter journeys, taxis are better (get a business card and reserve a
maxi cab for your trip to the airport).
The Sights
Remember: the Eiffel Tower is best viewed from the park at its base,
dont waste half a day dodging pickpockets in the lineups. Instead, take
them to the Eiffel Tower Carousel, the prettiest in the city.
Dining
We found that picnicking in parks was better than trying to keep the
steak knives and wine glasses out of tiny hands. Not to mention all the
glares we avoided this way. If you have rented an apartment like we did,
even better.
Money
Credit cards and online reservations are de rigeur, but you will find
that your booking cant be retrieved with a foreign credit card. This
applies to train tickets, museum passes, etc. Be prepared to line up.
Taxes
The 12% VAT can add up. Make sure to carry your passport number and ask
for a tax form at point of purchase. You can get the tax back in cash at
the airport before you check in as long as you have your purchases on
hand to present to them.
Bon Voyage!
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