You barely need a brush with Tofino on B.C.’s Vancouver Island to know it’s a magical place—but, when you delve beneath the surface of tourist offerings, you really come to understand the depth of experience this end-of-the-road town has to offer. Our recent Pacific Northwestern vacation was an excavation mission for coastal moments we’ve never had before.
communal living: Sure, Tofino has luxe resorts, but, if you’re in search of more than just accommodations (or need a place to stay on the fly), check out what alternative living is all about at the Symbiosis Eco Village (a.k.a Poole’s Land). The communal campsite is wave-listening distance from MacKenzie Beach, with acres of sweet little campsites nestled in the woods or perched on scenic hills. A visit will cost you an hour of labour (we felled a wayward cedar), but the stories you’ll share with other residents add immeasurable value. Oh, and the kitchen area has Wi-Fi. Symbiosis Eco Village, MacKenzie Beach Rd. (at Pacific Rim Hwy.), Tofino, B.C.
shell shock: Veer off the pre-town highway at the sign promoting “Live Crab.” We hadn’t directly addressed crustacean mortality until Tofino, and did so in five easy steps: 1) listen to kind lady at shop explain that you stab their underbelly and de-gut pre-steam; 2) argue with dining companions over who actually has to do that; 3) decide that we’ll do it, dammit; 4) panic when crab writhes wildly upon stabbing and inexpiably sprint into bathroom yelling, “Oh god, somebody finish him”; and 5) garlic butter.
mycological society: Seek solace in gentler bounties by learning the nuances of B.C.’s wild edibles. Mushroom season is early this year; chanterelles, identifiable by the extension of their yellow gills down from their caps and onto their stems (important) and hedgehogs, with soft underside bristles that make them easy to spot, grow on moist forested slopes (look for spots where the fog would roll in). Cut mushrooms with a knife to leave root beds intact, prepare to veer off-path and take all precautions therein. It’s worth it.
kayak adventures: The most serene and unobtrusive way to convene with ocean life (short of an Alteo Air seaplane jaunt for some aerial whale-watching en route to local hotsprings) is to take a small kayak tour with Tofino Sea Kayaking. We opted for a seven-hour journey around dark coastal crags and into the infinite horizon, blue sky above and a rare wash of harmless, bright-indigo velella velella jellyfish below. Capsizes rarely occur but, when one did on our trip, we were welcomed for tea and dry-offs at an Ahousaht First Nations town on a blissfully nearby beach, and shared incredible Red Can Gourmet Nanaimo bars and peanut butter brownies. Tofino Sea Kayaking, 320 Main Street, Tofino B.C., 250-725-4222, www.tofinoseakayaking.com & Alto Air, 50 Wingen Lane, Tofino, 250-725-2205, www.atleoair.com.
Share your favourite Tofino off-the-beaten-path spots in the comments below. —Adrienne Matei
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