French Follies: Savour the South of France

Wine, lavender, cheese, flowers—the South of France possesses a reverie-inducing charm. From the western wine region of Bordeaux to the hilltop town of Provence to the grandeur of Cote d’Azure, there’s a brand-new discovery to be made around every bend in the road.

live like a local: Skip the pricey hotels and join the travel community that makes the foreign more familiar. Airbnb offers hundreds of apartments—or chateaux, for those with extra euros in their wallets—at good cost, with hosts who can offer insider tips to help you better explore the region. In Nimes, host Veronique provides an eclectic pied-a-terre showcasing her own artistic works and is more than happy to chat about bistros and wine bars in the shadow of the circa-19 BC Maison Carree and first century amphitheater. www.airbnb.ca

delight with degustations: Bordeaux’s 120,000 hectares of vineyards are an oenophile’s dream. Explore the larger, corporate wineries of the Left Bank or the smaller, family chateaux of the Right, hopping, touring and sampling the whole way. Among more than 1,500 vineyards in the region, the Chateaux Prieure-Lichine, founded by monks, includes its very own swarthy vintner, who describes wine-making like a wanton romance novelist. Chateaux Prieure-Lichine, 24, avenue de la 5ieme, 33450 Cantenac, France, www.prieure-lichine.fr

guilt-free gourmand: With the endless availability of cheeses, tapenades, truffles, desserts, breads and pastries, it’s hard to believe French women don’t get fat. But portions are smaller, so you can savour the region’s gastronomy without guilt. Le Bistrot des Vignobles in Saint-Emilion—the creation of a Parisien banker-turned-chef—boasts a garden terrace drenched in moonlight and walled by Roman ruins. For 30 euro, feast on Jambon de Bayonne (ham), tomato and zucchini "tiramisu" and grilled lamb with mushroom and truffle sauce, all accompanied by wines from (where else?) the surrounding fields. Le Bistrot des Vignobles, 20 Rue porte de Brouqueyre, 33330 Saint-Emilion, France

scents and savouries: Because you’ll certainly want to bring a bit of France home, Premiere Pression Provence—an epicerie fine in the shadow of a ruined hilltop castle in Les Baux-de-Provence—offers a collection of truffles pesto, fruit-infused vinegar and lavender honey. If that doesn’t suit your tastes, venture eastward to Grasse, the perfume capital of the world. Wind your way through narrow streets lined with market stalls of fresh artichokes and vine tomatoes to the Perfumerie Fragonard for a museum and factory tour. Avoid the gift shop’s flurry and head to L’Eau de Cassis—a tiny boutique offering a personalized experience as you discover your own individual scent. L’Eau de Cassis, 32, Rue Amiral de Grasse, 06130 Grasse, France, www.leaudecassis.com

A trip for the senses, it’s impossible not to fall under France’s spell. —Kristie Perrotte