A Crash Cheese Course

Jackie Ellis of Beaucoup Bakery lays out your next cheese course like nobody’s business in this guest-editor blog.

The cheese course is my secret weapon for effortless entertaining: choose, buy, unwrap, and done. It’s easy, elegant and almost everyone loves cheese more than they should. But considering there are 1000+ varieties of cheese coming from France alone, the “choosing” part becomes a bit of a challenge.

The easiest way to jump the hurdle is simply to ask your fromagier to choose. (There’s no shame, I do this often) But in case you want a head start on your cheese vocab for an upcoming France trip, or you’re curious about the anatomy of the perfect plate, here are a few general guidelines from Benton Brothers.

—Jackie Ellis

Categories at a glance

The key to a great cheese selection is to pick a variety from different categories and milks for a range of textures and flavours that keep the palate stimulated.

1.     Fresh:
Soft without rinds.
Clean, mild flavour.
Ex. Ricotta, fromage frais, burrata

2.     Bloomy rind:

Smooth, soft and sometimes gooey and runny with a velvety rind.
Ex. Brie, Brillat Savarin, La Tur.

3.     Washed rind:
Washed in a brine or alcohol, giving it pungent aromas and defined flavours.
ex. Tallegio, Epoisse, Raclette

4.     Blue:
Signature blue veining throughout.
Vary in pungency and flavour and are complex and unique.
Ex. Roquefort, Stilton, Gorgonzola

5.     Semi-soft:
Delicate, crowd-pleasing flavour and pliable texture.

Ex. Havarti, Morbier, Fontina

6.     Semi-hard:
Generally have thicker rinds, are denser, more aromatic and developed in flavour.
Ex. Fontina, Cheddar, Comté

7.     Hard:
Can be aged for several years and have a sharp taste and a dry, dense texture, often with salt crystals.
Ex. Parmigiano Reggiano, Asiago Vecchio, Aged Manchego

Milk-made

1.     Cow:
Most common and earthy.

2.     Goat:
Tangier and gamey. Milder as it ages.

3.     Sheep:
Generally sweeter and nuttier.

4.     Buffalo:
Most commonly used for buffalo mozzarella.

Acoutrements
Balance your board with fresh or dried fruit or a fruit pate like membrillo to keep the palate fresh.