New Eats: Soubois

Modern-day Snow Whites now have a magical, woodsy refuge where they can sip and dine downtown.

Entering Montreal’s latest terroir restaurant, Soubois (literal translation: undergrowth), is like stepping into an enchanted forest. The below-street-level bistro is a maze of wood-covered rooms, including a cleverly concealed speakeasy, a private 10-seat dining area, an impressive wine cellar and a multi-level resto-bar under a canopy of tree-like structures. At the bar, enjoy one of mixologist Andrew Whibley’s creative cocktails, like the Wilmer’s Punch, served with a smoking pine sprig—a little forest fire for your drink. Then, head to the dining area for a crisp white wine from a list selected by Élyse Lambert, named Canada’s Top Sommelière of 2015—perfect with a plate of oysters and raw market vegetables and dip, followed by maple-charred trout with orange carrot purée or venison tartare with asparagus, quail eggs and pickled mushrooms, courtesy of chef Guillaume Daly.

The perfect finish to a woodland meal? Soubois’ spin on s’mores are dabs of chocolate ganache infused with wood-steeped tea and graham cookie. Magic. —Carrie MacPherson

Restaurant Soubois, 1106 de Maisonneuve W, Montreal, 514-564-3672, soubois.com