One of the best things about living in BC is having vines in our own backyard. We’ve practically been weaned on our local juice and wine tripping has become a classic summer activity. The Okanagan Valley is well-trodden. Those in the know head to the Similkameen. Both Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands offer quaint getaways. And the Fraser Valley makes for a quick and easy excursion from downtown Vancouver.
Wineries are popping up in every nook and cranny with the web of BC’s vineyard area continuing to expand north and east. Heading to Lillooet, Kamloops or Shuswap? They’ve got you covered. These emerging wine regions tend more to the extremes with hotter days, colder nights and an even shorter season, but there are a few brave souls who are up for the grape-growing challenge.
With just one officially licensed winery to date, Lillooet doesn’t pose a threat to the Okanagan. In fact, my first question to Fort Berens co-owners Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek was why (on earth) they came all the way from Holland to plant grapes here. Lillooet, which is one of BC’s hottest spots in the summer had no track record for grape growing. Looking to escape the corporate rat race, they moved to Canada looking for a better environment to raise a family. They also had their hearts set on winemaking but land prices in the Okanagan had become prohibitive. Harry McWatters (ex-Sumac Ridge), who is actually working on his own project in Lillooet, advised them that the area had potential.
Tapping into their pioneering spirit they planted 20 acres in 2009 and have been experimenting ever since. A second vineyard is in the works and they are currently deciding what to plant there. After tasting through their current stable, I have my fingers crossed for Cabernet Franc and Riesling. If you run out of things to do in Whistler, take the scenic two-hour drive on Highway 99 onward to Lillooet and enjoy lunch on Fort Berens’ beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking the vineyards. Executive chef Dylan Foss sources as much as he can locally and manages to come up with creative clean-flavoured dishes.
Another two hours east, the Kamloops Wine Trail taps into a bit of the Wild West history. Offering a whopping four wineries, it’s reminiscent of the Okanagan in its early days. All four are sourcing some of their fruit from Vernon or points further south in the Okanagan. However, Harper’s Trail is working towards making wine from grapes completely from their vineyard on the bank of the South Thompson River. Of the estate wines, the Cabernet Franc stands out. Lighter weight than Okanagan examples, the 2014 is a chillable, chuggable style that clocks in at a refreshingly moderate 12.2 per cent. The Pioneer Block Dry Riesling is also well-done. Be forewarned though, it’s not completely dry as the label suggests but is still well-balanced with mouthwatering acidity. —Michaela Morris
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