It’s not like American influence is ever really off the runways: it’s so broad, encompassing everything from track pants to rugged jean jackets, that we might legitimately say we all do Americana, all the time.
Yet this fall/winter, one trend has proved particularly pervasive: cowgirls and golden fields of waving wheat, with designers as varied as Stuart Vevers of Coach 1941 and Henry Holland of House of Holland giving classic American their own unique spins. As such, the question must be asked: Are they trying to make a political point? Fashion stylist and writer Steven Schelling says yes—but not the one you may be thinking of.
“What’s coming into stores now was conceived, designed and manufactured during the run-up to the U.S. election,” he said. “I think many designers were enthused by the idea of America’s first female commander-in-chief. These cowgirl-slash-Prairie looks, mined from the most ‘romantic’ period in America’s self-styled historical identity, would have had a completely different effect on the runways if Hillary was in office instead of the current occupant.”
The romantic element Schelling speaks of is strongly evidenced by Coach 1941’s collection of sweet frocks and dirndl skirts, paired with shaggy shearling jackets and touches of plaid. Everything looks a little homemade and, in case you didn’t get the message, horse print was a recurring theme. To keep the look modern, not too literal but still rooted in the U.S. of A., the fashion brand’s creative director Vevers added oversized shearling baseball caps and thick-soled leather sneakers to the mix.
Meanwhile, Raf Simons went the route of western-style two-pocket shirts and cowboy boots for his debut collection at the helm of Calvin Klein. He also roamed the rest of the American cultural landscape with pieces inspired by everything from bandleaders to Wall Street.
“He’s riffing on classic Americana and giving it a futuristic feel, celebrating a vision of the States that is inviting and diverse,” said Suzanne Timmins, senior vice-president and fashion director for Hudson’s Bay.
Alexander Wang, by contrast, is a bit more subtle, giving us hints of fringing, rhinestones and studs in his FW offerings. And what of non-American designers? Guillaume Henry did cowgirl wear but in pretty, muted hues at Nina Ricci while House of Holland went to the other extreme—brash and OTT in bold, bright colours (read: borderline trashy).
Timmins reckons two-pocket shirts and jean jackets will be everywhere on FW high streets this season. “As well,” she said, “there will be accessories such as western boots, cowboy-influenced hats, suede footwear and handbags, turquoise jewelry and rodeo belts.”
Of course, avoiding tacksville has to be high on the priority list for anyone who wants to incorporate the look into their wardrobe. How to do that?
“Less is more,” Schelling emphasized. “Wearing western-style boots? Stop there! Wearing a cowboy-inspired blouse? Stop there! Wearing a Stars-and-Stripes tee? Stop there!”
And for a really up-to-the-minute look, Timmins suggests mixing your cowgirl elements with basics.
“I loved how Millie Bobby Brown paired her white cowboy boots with a minimalistic mini-dress at the MTV Awards,” she said. “It’s that contrast that will really update the trend and make it right for 2017.” —Aileen Lalor
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