Rain Versus Grape

If viticulture is not in your genes, then it can be confounding when rain, the magical tonic drops of life that prompt springtime blooms and the cleaning of our closets, takes on the surprising role of villain in the world of wine. Rain is essential to farming, and it is absolutely mandatory to have a certain amount of rainfall in order to nourish vines and grow grapes; however, this rainy role is limited to certain periods of the growing season, roughly being in the winter and spring months, when the vines are dormant and before the buds break on the vines. It is when rain decides to fall outside of these parameters that things can get foul—literally. Too much rain, if it pools in a soil with poor drainage, can lead to rotting roots; additionally, too much moisture can cause fungal and mildew problems on the vines, leaves, and grapes. Even worse, too much rain when the grapes are growing can dilute the grape, watering down the flavour of the wine, and that’s if the grape doesn’t burst and split open, rendering it useless for winemaking. When the rain comes, how much it drops, and how long it stays for, can drastically affect a vineyards vintage, for better or for worse.

Although it sounds dire, winemakers earn their stripes by navigating this wildly unpredictable force called nature. They choose where to grow, what to grow, the soil to grow it in, and they do their best to bring great wines to the table, rain or shine. And on those rainy days, when we crack open a bottle, it is them we can thank. So here are four uplifting wines to chase away your rainy blues and reinvigorate your palate for spring! —Laura Starr

freeform ancient method 2017, summerland, okanagan valley ($35 private or winery direct). Sparkling wine is my happy place. This one is organic and fermented with native yeast, and features crunchy red apple and citrus notes, with bright, zippy acidity.

blue grouse estate winery and vineyard quill q white 2018, duncan, cowichan valley ($20 winery direct). This Vancouver Island winery has been leaning into terroir-expert, Pedro Parra, for consultation. And it shows with this bright and fresh blend, showcasing ripe peaches, honeyed spice, and flowers.

winemaker’s cut sauvignon blanc 2018, oliver, okanagan valley ($26 private or winery direct). It makes me smile to drink wine that is serenaded in the cellar with cheery classical music (a signature trait of WC wines). Hit with a dash of Slovakian oak, this rich Sauv Blanc is all tropical fruit, with a clean, mineral finish.

rust wine co. rosé 2018 (1.5-litre magnum), cawston, similkameen valley ($35 kitsilano wine cellar). This rosé is fresh and fruity, with hints of orange zest spicing up the notes of ripe strawberry. Crushable AND $5 from every magnum goes toward the BC Hospitality Foundation!