How To Let Your Hair Air Dry This Summer

No need to blast red-hot air at your head with August temps balmy enough as it is. We turned to Roberto Sousa of Nadio Albano Style Inc. for his top tips on h-air drying, naturally, with style. —Noa Nichol

Does hair type matter when it comes to successful air drying? What about product?

When it comes to air drying hair, it’s essential to take your unique hair type into account as products and techniques may differ according to your hair texture, pattern, porosity and density. You should ask yourself whether you’re trying to create waves, or control them. If it’s the former, for fine hair, use a texturizing spray like Spray à Porter by Kérastase, which will encourage texture and waves. For increased control, use Curl Gloss & Hold by Oribe. Both are used on wet hair and will provide hold that won’t make the hair at all sticky. For thick hair, use a product that sculpts as well as controls, like Bouncy & Tender by L’Oréal Professionnel. For coarser, thicker hair, which tends to be naturally dryer, use Oribe Styling Butter Curl Enhancing Crème.

For us, frizz is an issue when air drying. Your tips to tame?

I get asked this question all the time and really, it’s not what you do to your hair to get rid of frizz and pouffiness—it’s what you don’t do. Break that age-old rule of brushing your hair after you get out of the shower; the more you mess, touch, flip and play with your hair as it air dries, the frizzier and pouffier it will get. This bears repeating: do not do anything that will tamper with your natural texture from wash to finish. If you need some control, or want to define a parting, try no-bend hair clips; the flat backing ensures there’s no crease or dent left on the hair once it dries. Really afraid of the frizziness and the volume it brings? I’ve been known to wear a thin knit toque or beanie while my hair air dries. It keeps the poufiness away—especially when it’s humid—and, unlike a baseball cap, you don’t have to worry about the dreaded hat-head imprint.

Speaking of such, are there steps we can take, say, in the shower or in generally treating/taking care of hair to prep for a successful air dry?

Yes! A successful air dry style starts even before you turn on the water in the shower. First, brush your hair out, using an oval or paddle brush, getting rid of tangles and knots to ensure the conditioner goes through the hair better. If you tend to have a dry, itchy scalp, take that same brush to loosen those problem areas on the scalp so the scalp is evenly cleansed during the shampoo. Once in the shower, make sure the hair is fully saturated in water and, without shampoo, scrub the scalp and the ends to loosen any debris in the hair before shampooing. Hydration is key for a successful air dry so use a shampoo that hydrates, like Moisture & Control by Oribe or Smooth Again Wash from Kevin Murphy. For conditioner, use Intense Conditioner For Moisture & Control by Oribe or Smooth Again Rinse by Kevin Murphy. Make sure to apply to your mid-lengths to ends, avoiding the scalp as much as possible. Then, using a wide-tooth comb, comb the conditioner or mask through your hair. This is the last time you’ll comb through your hair. Once you’re out of the shower, with your towel, only pat dry your scalp. Do not rub your hair, as this will rough-up your hair’s cuticle. Finish by squeezing the towel through your ends. This will help the product you’re about to apply distribute evenly. After that, touch your hair as little as possible. When applying a product (mists and sprays included) make sure to start with a quarter-sized amount (add more if needed) and make sure it’s evenly distributed in and around your fingers, just like hand cream. Tilt your head to one side and, using your hands, rake the product through first and then scrunch. Repeat on the other side. Once all the product has been distributed, let the hair settle. And: Don’t. Touch. It. If it gets in your face just deal with it the best you can. Once it’s dry you can add a drop or two of Gold Lust Nourishing Hair Oil by Oribe to help smooth out the ends. Oh ,and did I mention? Once dry. DO. NOT. TOUCH. IT.

Is it possible to achieve different styles (beachy waves, polished bends, pretty spirals, soft ‘n’ smooth) via air drying? How?

It’s not really about styling your hair, it’s more about persuading your hair into a style, so make sure to give yourself some time (depending on how fast your hair dries). After distributing the appropriate product for your hair type, divide hair into manageable sections. I personally like to do five sections: two in the front, two behind that, and then one in the back. For beachy waves, braid each section in a loose braid and, while it’s drying, twist and clip the braids into a bun a few inches below the crown to lift the hair up and give it more body. For polished bends, purposely flatten the roots, and braid each section in loose braids; once dry, flip your head over, shake out your hair and polish the ends with a drop or two of a finishing serum. For spirals, instead of braiding twist-up each section, then twist each section around a piece of fabric “maypole-style”. Can’t find a piece of fabric? Get creative and use a belt from a terry cloth robe, and keep the belt fastened to your head using a claw hair clip.

What’s your personal favourite or a great tried-and-true air-dried style for summer? Steps to achieve?

The best air-dried style for summer is one that lets you enjoy more summer! Let sleep be your stylist and make two loose braids before you go to bed; you can twist them into a bun and clip to secure. A rough sleeper? Get a pair of ankle hosiery, place each braided bun into each one and secure with a scrunchie—this will keep the braided buns secure and prevent frizz causing friction from tossing and turning. In the morning, shake them out and spray with Dry Texturizing Spray by Oribe, spraying from underneath (this product offers light hold and its patented polymers absorb oil at the roots). And did I mention? Don’t touch it. The more air-dried hair is manipulated, the frizzier it gets. So make every hair flip count. If you really want to polish the hair, you could use a curling iron to add waves to a few pieces as needed.

Let’s recap your air-dry styling products!

For finer hair types use Spray à Porter by Kérastase—it’s a lightweight texturizing beach-wave spray that holds without leaving the hair sticky—or try Curl Gloss & Hold by Oribe, which holds up to humidity for a crunchless curl. For thicker hair types try Bouncy & Tender by L’Oréal Professionnel, which is actually two products in one. One part is a curl gel and the other is a sculpting cream. Both work in tandem for bouncy and defined curls. For my hair type (thick, course and textured) I tend to reach for Styling Butter Curl Enhancing Creme by Oribe. It’s perfect for hair that requires a product with a lot more hydration to soften and define curls. I also have been loving Smooth Again by Kevin Murphy: it works as a leave-in conditioner and a styling product, eliminating frizz and leaving you with smoother, silkier hair. If you feel nothing out there can tameyour wild hair, then definitely try anything and everything Bouclème (especially the Curl Cream). Introduced to me by the founder of Ayla Beauty (a natural beauty haven based in San Francisco), Bouclème products are packed with nourishing and penetrating ingredients to help hydrate and strengthen the cuticle from the inside out.

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