Runway Review: Chanel Cruise Dubai

It was Gabrielle Chanel who first introduced the concept of Cruise wear as early as 1910. These were collections created for her customers travelling to warm climates on vacations. Under starry, humid skies, this fun and youthful collection was presented to attendees in Dubai’s Harbour Creek, overlooking the city skyline. This was the first time the brand has showcased outside of France since the pandemic.

Chanel’s Cruise 2022 collection was originally showcased at the Carrières de Lumières in the village of Les Baux-de-Provence, in the south of France, in May. Although, due to coronavirus, there was no audience in attendance, and the presentation was only viewed digitally.

The quarry, where the show first took place, inspired creative director Virginie Viard. This was the same location of Testament of Orpheus, a film created in 1959 by the poet, draughtsman, playwright and filmmaker Jean Cocteau, who was friends with Gabrielle Chanel. The silhouettes in this collection evoked the simplicity and poetry of this film. The presentation was reimagined in the setting of Dubai, creating a new atmosphere with projections of olive branches across draped beige fabric.

There was a distinct two-tone colour scheme to this collection, playing on the monochrome contrasts of the 1960s, rock and punk style. Signature Chanel tweed jackets and silk crepe suits were showcased along with leather looks with graphic details.

After the evening show, guests gathered in a warmly lit room for the afterparty hosted by DJs Wladimir Schall, Soo Joo Park and Kungs. A performance by Grammy Award-winning singer John Legend was a welcome surprise for the attendees. Joining him on stage was Canadian-Moroccan singer Faouzia. The two sang their song, Minefields, while the crowd sipped champagned and took in the enchanting atmosphere. —Lyndi Barrett