Itch Factor

It seems these days like wool is hard to avoid—it’s in virtually every sweater and cardigan in varying amounts—making cosy dressing virtually impossible for those with sensitive and itch-prone skin. Or so we thought …

Chatting with dermatologist Dr. Aegean Chan, we found most people don’t have a wool allergy at all; rather, their skin reacts against woolly things. “Research has been done where they found that fibres larger than around 30 nanometers are typically the ones that trigger that itch reaction,” she says. “This is not specific to wool itself. If you put on a horsehair sweater made from coarse horsehair you would have that same itchy feeling. It’s not a true allergic reaction.”

In fact, says Dr. Harvey Lui, professor of dermatology at UBC and a dermatologist at Vancouver General Hospital, synthetic fabrics that feel woolly can give people the same prickly sensation as real wool. People can also get skin reactions to materials that are tight. “You can get histamine reactions to pressure, so wearing a garment with a tight band can cause hives,” Dr. Lui explains.

It’s a condition known as dermatographism. “If you trace a fingernail on someone’s skin that has it, then they will develop a weal, where the skin becomes red and swollen in seconds,” says Dr. Chan. Antihistamines work well to bring down hives quite quickly.

Other than that, people can react to the dyes in fabric, or to lanolin, the wax found on the surface of sheep’s fleeces. “It’s not that common though,” Dr. Chan says. “I also found in clinical practice that a lot of people get irritant contact dermatitis—a non-specific skin rash, not a true allergy—from detergents left over in clothing, particularly detergents with a lot of fragrance.” Mostly, however, the problems with wool and other fabrics come down to their texture; their fibres physically scratch the skin and make it feel uncomfortable.

People who have generally sensitive skin or conditions like eczema tend to find they get more irritation from fabric because their moisture barriers offer less protection. Ironically, sensitivity tends to be even more pronounced in the colder months, and that’s exactly when you will be looking for warm sweaters that could potentially be exacerbating things. Beyond conventional treatments like moisturizing and applying hydrocortisone cream, there’s one surprising way of addressing your sensitivity: ultrafine and superfine merino wool. Dr. Chan says that there are studies that show wearing garments made from these can reduce flares of atopic dermatitis.

And, if you really want to wear a scratchy sweater, Dr. Lui says to don a cotton or synthetic breathable shirt underneath—just avoid anything that even feels like wool. The seven styles below, for example, fit the bill. —Aileen Lalor

Made from 100 per cent extra-fine merino, Ecologyst’s gender-neutral The Merino sweater keeps you warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot. You can’t throw it in the washing machine and dryer but, since merino is naturally antimicrobial, you won’t need to wash it often.

Lululemon’s Perfectly Oversized cropped crew Softstreme pullover is sized for comfort and cropped for style, and comes in a super-soft fabric with what the brand calls a “peach-fuzz finish”.

If you find that your woolly sweaters are particularly bothersome round the neck, Muji’s Less Itchy cable knit sweater is for you. The body is 100 per cent wool but the collar is a cotton polyester blend. The Japanese label also makes beanies with cotton lining for the forehead area to reduce the scratchy wool feeling.

Made from a viscose/nylon blend, RW&Co’s Boat-Neck Batwing Sleeve Pullover has a relaxed fit—so no problem if you don’t like tight clothes on your skin—with ribbed hem, neck and cuffs. 

You get that soft and snuggly feel, thanks to the brushed knit fabric of this oversized Smash + Tess Chelsea Sweater, which also has a matching skirt.

You don’t have to turn to sweaters and jackets—base layers like Uniqlo’s Heattech Turtleneck can keep you warm, and provide an extra layer between your skin and your woolly topper if you choose to wear one.

The soft Vallier New Haven Merino Turtleneck Sweater was designed in Montreal and while it’s 100 per cent Australian merino, it can be washed in the machine at cold temperatures. Extra-long cuffs keep you extra warm, and it’s fitted enough to layer under another sweater or cardi.