The Gorgeous Inconsequence Of Time

Need a breather? Just minutes north of Puerto Vallarta, Riviera Nayarit is Mexico’s newest escape. Promising 200 miles of secluded island shores, virgin beaches and hippie coastal towns, what’s making the Pacific side of the country gain thrust over its Caribbean counterpart is not the landscapes and hang-loose vibes, but its attention to visitors finding their way to better wellness. I’ve come to cool my own jets on a sea-and-sand sojourn to the region, armed with an itinerary that’s full of spa pampering and surf tides while staying low on schedules and stress. The goal: to leave sun-kissed, relaxed and recharged. Will a few days suffice? I’m about to find out. —Lara Ceroni

Spirit Sanctuary In Puerto Vallarta

Health, harmony and well-being are the essential elements of the Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit, where everything is streamlined toward serenity. From the coastal views on the edge of Mexico’s Banderas Bay to its infinity pools and luxury spa, the resort wants to rid you of your worries and, given my arrival is met with a flute of Veuve and a delicate neck massage, I quickly see just how committed they are to it.

Staying in one of their Wellness Suites, I meet my own butler, who quickly goes to task personalizing every wellness element in my space: I decide on my aromatherapy (myrrh), organic soaps (grapefruit) and morning delivery of antioxidant juice and vegan snacks. Re-energized by a rain shower infused with vitamin C, I grab my in-suite yoga mat and dumbbells for a session with the hotel’s trainer at my private open-air terrace, where I do push-ups and planks while looking at the waves and diving pelicans below.

My reward for the sweat (besides a cold Cerveza) comes through with a three-hour treatment at the spa. Inspired by the healing arts of the Huichol culture, I start on my Water Journey, where my spa valet slicks me up head-to-toe in aloe vera before she moves me gently back-and-forth from eucalyptus steam and sauna, then washes me off via a stinging-yet-deeply-satisfying multi-jet pressure shower. Body tingling, I glide into the treatment room where I’m invited to make my own Mole exfoliating cream for my scrub and facial in a traditional metate, into which I fill cocoa, almonds and chilies, all while she whispers affirmations about forgetting my stress and my life because, at this moment, I’m the most important person in the room.

I drift in and out of consciousness until I open my eyes in a lounge chair by the lagoon. Hands appear with a chlorophyll martini and grapes rolled in sesame while a soft pillow of aromatic seeds is wrapped around my neck. What day is it? What’s my name again? I forget both as I float out of the spa with smooth, hydrated skin carrying the subtle aroma of chocolate for the remainder of the night.

Sea Salt & Surf Breaks In Sayulita

Plunging off the Sierra Madre mountains, the one-time dormant fishing town on Mexico’s rainforested Pacific coast of Sayulita is a tableau vivant of arrestingly fit surfers and long-haired dreamers carving their path, and their waves, in a heady state of Pollyanna. The bohemia hits you almost as strongly as the tequila—but I allow myself to be taken away by it. Soon, I’m rolling just as smoothly as the tide. I take languid turns through the village’s colourful boutiques weathered by the sun and salty winds, stop to bargain with indigenous Huichol people while they set out their beaded jewelry, and pop in and out of hippy-chic bars that mix Mexican country culture with a touch of Pacific surf.

While my coming to self could very well be found at the bottom of a margarita glass, I instead take my wellness to task in the depths of an ocean. Sayulita’s beach breaks have long made this Mecca territory, where the sport of surfing isn’t just a pastime but a religion. I surrender my footing (and my sanity along with it) to move into the wild domain of the local packs rollicking in froth while I’m trying to chill my fear. Time has no grip, so it feels deliciously dangerous to let the day wash over like this before late afternoon signals me out with a peach sky and a waiting plate of just-caught tuna tostadas: both offering my body all the restorative power it needs after being pummeled by swells and spindrift. 

Beach Bumming In Punta De Mita

Nature grounds me and, given the coastal town of Punta de Mita is nuzzled within a 1,500-acre private peninsula with 10 kilometres of virgin Pacific coast beaches, rolling green hills, and endless turquoise seas, it feels very on-brand. The sanctuary-inspired community is a natural destination to rejuvenate (ask the Kardashians and a particular Goop guru), and I choose to decompress at the luxe W Punta de Mita.

Day 1 I’m feeling ambitious, so I head to Studio Fit—a fully stacked fitness studio with jungle views—to rev my appetite for lunch at the property’s Chevcheria bar, which is a converted 1950s Chevrolet truck that serves ceviche and craft cocktails seaside. But, by Day 2, I’ve already perfected the art of doing nothing. Spending hours in my white-linen cabana on the private beach, I become certifiably obsessed with the sinewy locals waiting for their perfect sets in an ocean pounding with six-feet barrels; in the afternoon I steal away to WET TOO—an “adults-only playground” where I synchronize my swim laps in a glass infinity pool to the low thrum of house beats coming from a DJ stand nearby. I’m this close to posting #blessed on Instagram but decide to shut off the phone and work on staying mindful. I l feel lighter, clear-headed, almost intoxicated. Like I have taken a big hit of oxygen. Mexico, you get me. And I’ll be coming back soon.