When TV host and producer Fiona Forbes posted on social media about having the UNDO procedure on her microbladed brows, she received an atmospheric river of messages. “My DMs were on fire!” she says. “I did not realize there are so many women out there that are like me—that had regrets about having microblading in the early years.”
Forbes had plucked her brows to oblivion in her teens, turning them from Brooke Shields-style bushy brows to “little McDonald’s arches.” She jumped at the chance to have her brows microbladed 10 or so years ago, when the procedure—a semipermanent eyebrow tattoo—was fairly new. Subsequently, she had the brows touched up periodically by different practitioners using different types of pigment. “After five or six years, they started to turn blue and red in some spots,” she says. “I’m the kind of person, I just want to wake up and not put on makeup some days, but I would have to always cover the brows up and then I would kind of have half makeup on so then I would have to do the whole thing.”
The colour of her brows wasn’t the issue for Noa Nichol, this magazine’s editor-in-chief; instead, it was a lack of refinement in their appearance. “Rather than individual strokes that mimic individual hairs, I ended up with two ‘blocks’ for eyebrows,” she explains. In many cases, there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with the tattooing, but people change their hair colour and want their brows to match.
It is possible to have laser tattoo removal—though Brianna Errelat, founder of Be Brow Studio in Vancouver, says it’s a painful and time-consuming option, requiring many sessions. “It also is not an option for some skins and doesn’t work on all pigments and inks,” she says. Instead, she uses UNDO when her clients want to press reset on dodgy eyebrows or other permanent makeup, and even that lower-back tattoo you got in college and have regretted ever since. Only experts in tattooing or permanent makeup can train and be certified in the procedure. “When Bri got in touch with me and said she was certified to do UNDO, I was like, ‘Start the car!’” says Forbes.
How it works: “We apply a special serum called deracination serum that kind of wakes up the pigment in the tattoo—it’s made with all natural ingredients,” says Errelat. “It contains hyaluronic acid to hydrate, but the main ingredient is bentonite, which pulls pigment out of skin.” After applying the serum, she uses a tattoo machine to open the skin. “Then I kind of use a buffing motion to take the pigment out, going back over the tattoo. It works on any permanent makeup like brows, eyeliner and lips, and body tattoos as well,” she says.
How painful is it? Forbes says it was about as painful as the original microblading, while Nichol found it slightly more painful. “It was more like, ‘Can you stop for a sec, can I take a breath,’ that level,” says Forbes. “Bri did three passes on each brow and I don’t think I could have handled another.” Errelat will apply numbing cream beforehand and you can take Tylenol, though not Advil. “Everyone experiences different levels of pain—we all have a different tolerance,” she says. “It will also be more painful if you have your period—the same as for waxing or lasers. But this is far less painful than something like a laser tattoo removal or a Fractal laser treatment.”
One session of the removal itself lasts only about 20 minutes. The deracination serum is then left on for an additional 25 minutes or so, and then Errelat will apply a lifting clay mask and a microcurrent sheet mask, though you can take the masks home if you want to cut your visit time. “What’s cool is you are able to see the pigment coming out of skin—I always show the client the gauze pad with the colour on it after,” Errelat says. After the procedure, Forbes says she had a stinging feeling for a while, but it was minor, “like when you skin your knee.” The eyebrow skin does scab, and it may look dark because it’s tinted with pigment. “It usually lasts a week or maximum 10 days and you can’t wear makeup,” Errelat says. “Don’t sweat: that is major. A lot of my clients are women who work out a lot and I tell them they need to skip the gym or the spin class. It’s just one week!”
How many sessions you need depends on how old your tattoo is. With older ones, the pigment is closer to the top of the skin so you might only need to visit Errelat twice. With newer ones or if a tattooist has gone too deep with the ink, you might require four sessions, with a minimum of four weeks between them. You also might not want or need complete removal but rather to gently fade what you have.
Afterwards, you can stay au naturel or, around four weeks later, get your new brows. Errelat is a fan of nanoblading, which is done with a machine rather than freehand and allows for finer strokes and more detail, for an even more natural experience. Whatever you choose, you need to be sure of your practitioner. “Make sure they give you proper information before your UNDO procedure and that they have they have the proper certification,” Errelat says. “The risks of this are the same of anything where you are opening the skin—infection and scarring. They need to give you the proper information about aftercare because if you don’t take care of the area it will not heal as well.”
Nichol isn’t quite sure what she’ll do next, but after two sessions of UNDO she already prefers how her brows look. “My goal is to remove these and have them redone, immediately,” she says. “I have very sparse natural brows and I don’t really like the skinny look. Big and fluffy or classic and timeless, I’m still unsure … but I would like to be able to discern individual brow hairs.”
Forbes just wants her original, never-plucked brows back. “I don’t think my actual brows will be full enough to have a proper shape [after the procedure is finished] and so I may go for nanoblading,” she says. “The thing I’m going to bring to Bri when I do it is the last photo of myself before I discovered tweezers. That will be my inspiration photo. Of course the easiest thing would have been to listen to my mother and not pluck them in the first place, but now I can go back to what I was born with. I’m so excited. When I had that first treatment and it healed and the blue was gone, I phoned Bri screaming. It was the best Christmas gift to open. It’s really a game-changer.” —Aileen Lalor
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