As the vibrant spirit of the Essence Festival of Culture—hailed as the preeminent experience of all things Black—engulfed the city of New Orleans in June, VITA tagged along with SheaMoisture Canada as the
brand proudly championed diversity, inclusivity and innovation throughout the weekend-long event. While temperatures in New Orleans soared, we participated in interactive popups, listened to inspiring panels, attended an epic concert (think Ice Cube, Ludacris and birthday girl Missy Elliott) and snagged an exclusive interview with brand manager Maureen Kitheka to learn more about SheaMoisture Canada’s unique approach to Black haircare and its long-standing commitment to “overserving the underserved.”
Founded by Rich Dennis, SheaMoisture’s rich history traces back to 1912 when Dennis’ grandmother, Sophie Tucker, discovered the transformative benefits of shea butter for skin and textured hair in Sierra Leone. Thirty-two years later, the brand has stayed true to its roots, prioritizing clean and natural ingredients that are responsibly and ethically sourced from West African communities and, in doing so, supporting more than 53,000 women and promoting Fair-Trade practices—a truly inspiring legacy.
However, a 2018 Unilever acquisition of the company raised some eyebrows among folks in the Black community, putting SheaMoisture’s longstanding commitment to being “for us, by us” into question. But Kitheka says the beauty brand has without a doubt remained devoted to its mission, ensuring that, despite new ownership, the business continues to be centred around the melanin-rich consumer.
“Part of the agreement of the entire sale was a commitment from Unilever to actually stay true to SheaMoisture’s mission,” she explains. “Unilever … continues to elevate, if not even prioritize in terms of messaging, the fact that, to authentically live up to that mission, the business remains Black-women-led.”
Though she says she can “completely understand where that sentiment comes from,” Kitheka points out that, thanks to the acquisition, “We are available coast-to-coast, which is because of the power of a corporation like Unilever. That creates a sense of accessibility as well, which can then once again serve the underprivileged underserved community or the people who are in marginalized identities, who need access to these products the most.”
And SheaMoisture isn’t just talking the talk either; it can financially back its claims and has the receipts to prove it. The brand has invested millions via purpose-driven programs, partnerships and donations. Recently, Unilever developed the Polycultural Center of Excellence in Connecticut—a state-of-the-art laboratory conducting research catered specifically to the needs of textured hair and consumers of colour. It goes to show, says Kitheka, that the Unilever purchase proved to be the result of “selling up, not selling out.”
Fast-forward to early summer 2023, when SheaMoisture’s pride in its heritage and unapologetic commitment to Black sisterhood permeated every aspect of the 29th annual Essence Festival, as women of all shades of brown proudly celebrated their beautifully textured tresses. Despite the event’s locale south of the 49th parallel, it is evident that the brand’s ethos extends to its northern division, as the company continues to grow within the Canadian market. This, Kitheka says, has much to do with Canada’s unique population.
“The impact of immigration in our market has meant that we have become much more multicultural, and we are accommodating of different looks from a beauty perspective.” And, she adds, “Although we are the northern neighbours, we can have that same sense of connection and community within the Black community in Canada and be inspired.”
According to Kitheka, “The social discomfort [of wearing your hair natural] hasn’t ended because, at the end of the day, it is much more than just something on your head. It is a crown. It is your jewel. Your tool for self-expression. You might give [the consumer] the product, you might give them access, but textured hair is different from straight hair. If you’re not honing down and educating the consumer, then you’re assuming that, because they have hair, they know what to do with it and you’re not going to get it right in this market.”
She adds, “The biggest opportunity for us is to figure out how to take the consumer to the next level in terms of getting closer to them and educating them on how to take care of their hair.” As such, SheaMoisture Canada aims to form strategic partnerships with Canadian stylists and offer comprehensive education for both Black and non-Black consumers. Kitheka says the company “both acknowledges and makes it clear that, while the products are intended to serve the Black community that has been underserved for a long time, diversity, equity and inclusion are key values … and [we] invite non-Black consumers to celebrate and learn about textured hair along with us.”
Additionally, SheaMoisture Canada believes that, in order to fuel generational wealth for underserved populations within Canada, it’s necessary to break cycles of systemic racism through the power of entrepreneurship. In 2022, the Dream Fund initiative was born to offer grants and programs exclusively to Black female-identifying entrepreneurs within the beauty industry. The fund recently awarded five recipients with both grants and coaching opportunities, in partnership with The Diversity Agency.
“There’s an extra leaning in to serve the Black woman, not only from a product perspective, but celebrating her, investing in her, empowering her and also making sure that she’s seen in our society. We are very intentional about that and it is a strong pillar within our equity-building pillars, so if we are to ever show up in any market, that is the person who will speak to primarily because that is a global mission for the brand.”
While the joyful festivities and sweltering heat of the Essence Festival of Culture may be over, SheaMoisture Canada’s commitment to its mission, to equity and to a purpose-driven approach shows no signs of cooling off. Says Kitheka, “Actions speak louder than words; you have to walk the talk, and I’m proud to say that the business is working toward that, and we have seen that through the love that has been given back to the brand through increased sales and growing business; that Black women have seen that we are still committed to this and have continued to support the brand.” As the brand continues to evolve, SheaMoisture Canada serves to champion and exemplify the importance of staying true to your roots, and that uplifting the community you serve has no borders. —Kelsey Ellis
Photos by Shane Miller
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