Microblading—tattooing hairs into the upper layers of skin using a handheld tool—has been around for years and is a pretty good solution for people who want fuller or more sculpted-looking eyebrows. But it’s far from perfect, according to Brianna Errelat of BE Studio. “Some people’s skin tone won’t take the pigment, some can’t retain the colour because their skin is oily,” she says. “It’s also not a good option if you have sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.”
You also won’t get perfectly natural-looking results from microblading because you can’t give the appearance of overlapping hairs, for example. So what’s the solution for someone who has either tried microblading and found it lacking, or been turned away because their skin type or tone isn’t suitable?
Errelat says nanobrows (a.k.a. digital brows) work well for almost everyone. This is where you use a rotary tattoo machine to create the hairs. “It’s like you’re using a sewing needle that goes in and out, versus scratching the skin, which is what you do with a microblade,” she explains.
This means you can get much more precise results because you can change the needle length, depth and speed, and that makes the service suitable for everyone, regardless of skin type, sensitivities or tone.
“Nano also heals faster,” says Errelat. “In the week or so after microblading, I get clients messaging, freaking out about their thick and crazy brows, which is a result of the pigment inside the incision creating these big scabs. That doesn’t happen with nanobrows because there’s no incision point, so the healing is gentler.”
Of the two services, nanobrows will also last longer. “Over time, microbladed brows blur into a more solid look and you don’t see the strokes or crispness—you lose that negative space and that nice, clean look,” Erralat explains. She recommends touchups for microblading once a year, while nanobrows should be good for between 18 months and two years. “I have clients who come back for a touchup and barely need anything—all the strokes are there and it’s just freshening the colour.”
To keep your brows looking fresh for longer, Errelat recommends being diligent with your sunscreen application and laying off the exfoliants. People with anemia used to also notice their eyebrows fading fast or changing colour because their bodies would absorb the iron from the pigment, but that’s less of an issue now that most practitioners have moved away from that type of pigment.
The nanobrow technique can be used for eyeliner, lips, areolas, to fill scars and stretch marks or even on the scalp to give the impression of density if you have thinning hair. However, it is a tricky skill to learn, so you should be careful when looking for a place to have it done—Errelat suggests asking friends who have great brows and then checking out the practitioner’s pictures on social media to see if you like their approach.
“I really like to mimic the natural brow’s shape, although I can create brows for someone who has no eyebrows,” she says. “I have all kinds of clients—men and women, of all ages. You want to find someone who has diversity and is not just working with 20-year-olds.”
Has microblading had its day? Not at all. “Some people get a good result from it and are perfectly happy with it,” says Errelat. “It’s really just a question of working with someone who can recommend the right thing for you.” —Aileen Lalor
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