Ultra-Feminine Lingerie Done Differently (Win!)

For those who care about conscious clothing, the sustainable lingerie brand Smith Bowen should be on your radar. Founded by Vancouver-based designer Renee Rechshaffner in 2020, Smith Bowen is dedicated to sustainable and ethical fashion, offering 100 per cent organic cotton products. The brand emphasizes sustainability in every aspect, from materials and dyeing to worker welfare and eco-friendly packaging and shipping. Prices range from $55 for a panty to $172 for a bra. We chatted with Renee to learn more. —Vita Daily

How did Rachel Carson’s book, Silent Spring, influence your journey into sustainable fashion, and what key message from the book continues to drive your work at Smith Bowen?

Rachel Carson’s book Silent Spring was a major source of inspiration for me, as Rachel was the first person to really sound the alarm on environmental issues. When she first became a biologist in the 60’s her male peers tried to silence her from sharing the truth about the harmful effects of toxins, pesticides and chemicals. This book has inspired me to apply the principles of circular economics and regenerative practices. What comes from the earth returns to earth. I wanted to create a brand that does just that. A biodegradable compostable clothing line that’s healthy for the people and the planet. The fashion industry is a women’s industry, 95% are women, and its mostly women that are stepping up to create change.  They are sounding the alarms about the environmental crisis. As more women move into positions of power, we will create the change needed.  With fast fashion production at its highest levels ever, it is our responsibility to correct the damage. Progress has a new meaning, convenience is out, and slow practices are in.

Given the widespread use of synthetic fibers in the fashion industry, why did you choose 100% organic cotton for Smith Bowen’s lingerie, and what challenges have you faced in sourcing and maintaining the purity of these materials?

Lingerie, and undergarments are the first things that you put on in the morning. natural organic fibers are the healthiest option next to your skin. Your skin is your largest organ, it absorbs everything and is your first barrier to keep toxins out of your body. Organic Cotton is the softest fiber and gets softer with washing due to its lack of harsh chemicals. It’s the perfect choice for underwear.  Polyester is thermoplastic fiber derived from petroleum. Would you want your skin to absorb petroleum? In terms of certification, we use GOTS certified fabrics. But we also work with a lot of farmers in India who can’t afford certified organic cotton. My sources have a working relationship with India farming families that work and witness the production process to ensure the steps needed to produce organic fabrics are taken. Challenges include sourcing non-plastic, natural organic alternatives for every design component, button, elastic, ribbons, lace and fabric dye etc some organic options don’t exist yet.

Can you walk us through your unique dyeing process using natural ingredients like avocado? How do you ensure consistency and quality in each piece while adhering to environmental standards?

First step: start by using your food waste, an example is avocado, another example are onions and cabbage, lots of foods have beautiful colors that adhere to fabric. It is difficult to achieve consistency, but part of the natural dye processes are the surprises and the imperfections. There are expert dyers out there that can achieve almost any desired color. Black is the hardest because it doesn’t exist in nature as a color.

With avocado, you need approximately twenty of them, you clean pits and skins. Simmer in a large pot for 2-3 hours, after you have a beautiful pinkish color tone that you pour into another pot while straining out any loose matter. Place the new color solution pot on the stove and heat slightly, then add your clean pre-soaked fabric to pot and slowly heat to a simmer. Keep it in the pot until you achieve the color intensity you want.  The color will vary depending on the avocados you buy. Dark green versus pinker or greener avocado.  The pits have tannins in them so no need to mordant (adherents) first. To create consistency, make sure the fabric is thoroughly wet throughout, and pre-washed with special solution to rid it of any possible unseen adhesives. That the dyes are mixed using boiling water to eliminate any clumps or extra color spots on the fabric during the dye process. Rinse out thoroughly and hang to dry.  To achieve the intensity of color you want you might have to dip the fabric several times to achieve the color or leave overnight.  Dying is like an art form. A slow process.

Smith Bowen is known for its commitment to sustainability and fair labor practices. How do you balance these ethical considerations with the need to remain competitive in the fashion market, especially in an era dominated by fast fashion?

The fashion industry is deceptive, especially fast fashion. Green washing (pretending to be green) is rampant. I can’t compete with large companies producing $5 underwear, I know a child or a mother with children at home made those $5 pants. Their working conditions are appalling. When it comes to sustainability, you’re either transparent or you’re not. People are raising concerns, and customers are waking up and asking for change. We proudly pay fair wages to local women sewers fostering an inclusive and supportive work environment. Underprivileged women collaborating on our laundry bags. We offer unique seeded hang tags to accelerate the composting of our garments, and carbon neutral shipping option at check out. My customers are asking for this change and they want something more ethical and sustainable.

Coming from a creative family and having your daughter as your muse, how do these personal influences shape the designs and ethos of Smith Bowen? Can you share an example of a particular design inspired by these personal elements?

I am a grandmother, my daughter has 2 children, I am inspired by them and the world they will inherit. The customer has to want to buy the design so it must be great product, they won’t buy just because it is organic. My daughter helps me with color, fabric selection, proportions style and model choices.  My son designed my logo. The heavenly boxer is inspired by these personal elements as both my son and my daughter love it! It is important for me to work with others who have the same values and inspire me to recognize the importance of sustainability in the industry and what needs to change for us and our planet to survive. It’s a complex problem and we need lots people working on the solutions together. We are better together.

Win! A $168 USD Smith Bowen Cloud Bra + Pantie Set!

One lucky Canadian winner will receive a $168 USD Smith Bowen Cloud Bra + Pantie Set! To enter, head over to Instagram, follow @smithbowenshop and @vitadailymedia and make sure to fulfil all the entry rules in the caption of the corresponding contest post. Contest opens June 21, 2024 and closes June 28, 2024. Complete contest rules and regulations here. Please note: if you are the winner, you will receive a DM (direct message) in Instagram directly from @vitadailymedia. Please be wary of fake accounts, which often use similar handles with an extra or missing letter, number or symbol. We will never ask for a payment or for your credit card number, and we will never ask you to click through a link. If you are unsure whether you have been contacted, via Instagram, by us or a fake account, email us before responding.