“Don’t be alarmed when the trees burst into flames.”
The disembodied voice echoes matter of factly through the gondola and the passengers erupt into instinctive nervous laughter.
“Did we hear that right?”
There’s no evidence of flames in the darkness outside the gondola window. The wind is raging outside but inside, the air is calm and the gondola continues its slow descent unperturbed by the announcement.
Gondola and passengers are enroute to the start of the Mechanical Bird experience at the base of Le Massif de Charlevoix, a Quebec ski resort in winter and mountainous playground in summer. At 2,526 vertical feet, Le Massif is the tallest mountain in Canada east of the Rockies but in a strange twist (at least to a girl from B.C.) the summit is accessible by car from the highway. The voice is guiding our unwitting crew’s passage down the mountain, narrating the spectacle they are about to witness on their return journey in both English and French punctuated with musical interludes.
Once at base camp, we cross over a bridge into a meadow of fairy lights and board the chairlift that will take us back up the mountain and presumably straight into the story we’ve just heard. As we ascend, all around us are lights, projections and soundscapes that illustrate the journey of the L’oiseau Mécanique.
The multi-sensory flight is both awe inspiring and spooky as the wind seemingly knows to pick up as the music and images intensify. At one point we clutch each other as we approach the beating heart of the mountain and I’m reminded of the “kali ma” scene from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.
When we finally reach the top on shaky legs, we’re both invigorated and relieved–a pattern, we come to realize, after spending 48 hours at Le Massif de Charlevoix.
Stay
The small but mighty resort (406 skiable acres) is located just over an hour away drive from Québec City Jean Lesage International Airport along the highway but there is also a train that travels between Quebec and Petite-Rivière-Saint-François along the banks of the St. Lawrence River. The quaint town of Petite-Rivière-Saint-François is a 5 minute drive or 40 minute walk from the base of Le Massif and the resort offers day-trip and overnight packages for those who chose to travel by train.
On-site there are 100 accommodation units to choose from. During the winter, the ski-in ski-out chalets at the base of the mountain are the way to go but in summer, the Chalet-Forêt apartments at the summit are the ultimate accommodation for those looking for freedom and privacy on their trip. The modern three-level apartments can sleep up to eight people and look out over the mountain, surrounding valley and St. Lawrence river beyond. Each has a balcony, BBQ, wood burning fireplace and full kitchen but the winning detail is the hot tub nestled at the back of the property surrounded by coniferous forest–a perfect place to enjoy a quiet moment.
Eat
True to form, the resort has a cafeteria at the summit of the mountain where skiers and bikers can grab casual bites like sandwiches and salads but Le Massif also manages to surprise with its more upscale options. The restaurant Camp Boule Buvette de Montagne is open year-round and offers gourmet regional cuisine by chef David Forbes celebrating seasonal ingredients. The paired back menu allows local flavours to shine and the laid back atmosphere is more interested in serving up delicious dishes than standing on ceremony. If you can, try to snag a table by the window. The view pairs excellently with the food.
In winter, hit up the crêperie at the base of the mountain for fresh made-to-order crepes with ham, cheese and béchamel sauce or opt for sweet with a choice of fruit, chocolate, salted caramel, or maple filling. And obviously, no day of skiing would be complete without an apres option which comes in the form of Le Grand Duc, a seasonal pub that hosts live bands and DJs throughout the season.
Do
Much like Whistler, Le Massif is a mountain biking destination with 55 km of trails for various skill levels. Thrill seekers can descend the 23 downhill enduro-style trails whereas families may prefer to take in the 3 km Cerise sur le sundae hike or Tutti Frutti loop near the base of the gondola. There’s also a mini course of bike jumps for the little ones to practice on between the gondola and Club Med.
Yes, that Club Med. Le Massif is home to North America’s first Club Med mountain village and visitors to the resort can purchase a day or night pass to the all-inclusive resort to enjoy everything the property has to offer including the indoor pool, hot tub, yoga and cirque classes. Plus the two restaurants and four bars on-site. The open-bar property is a veritable playground for adults and children alike with a mini golf course, multisport ground and bocce ball lawn outside and plenty of patios perfect for taking in the sweeping panoramic views with a cocktail in hand. The night pass also includes access to the nightclub and for an additional fee you can access the Nordic Spa with outdoor baths.
Club Med also offers guided hiking and biking tours of the surrounding trails led by knowledgeable locals who can cater the experience to skill level and areas of interest. People that are looking to go further afield can also book the guides for canyoning excursions in the summer and snowshoeing or sledding in the winter. The 7.5 km sledding run is the longest in North America and a must-try, we’re told.
And, of course, the Mechanical Bird experience can’t be missed. The night show runs all summer until September 2. —Allie Turner
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