A tween skincare “craze” is taking place on social media. Fuelled by popularity and colourfully packaged products, a growing number of tweens—children between the ages of eight and 12—are eager to adopt skincare regimens inspired by the ones they see on YouTube and TikTok. “Kids and tweens now participate in and are more native to the Internet and social media than any previous generation,” says Carolyn Curry, marketing director for the brand Evereden. “Those social media algorithms feed them the same trending content that adults get, so they are more immersed in what is popular among people in their late teens and 20s.”
And that includes skincare. It’s a trend Noa Nichol, editor-in-chief of VITA, has experienced with her own daughter, Esme. “It’s wild. I don’t recall being so interested—or interested at all, for that matter—when I was eight,” Nichol says. What seemed like a harmless interest in adopting a skincare routine— “For a while she had a daily/nightly skincare routine; it must have been 16 steps and products long,” Nichol recalls—became cause for concern when her daughter’s skin started to react to the products she was layering on.
“Eventually, her skin started to get irritated, and she broke out in a rash,” Nichol says. A temporary ban on all skincare products for her daughter was put in place. “Now she’s actually a little gun shy to use anything but water. We’re now much, much more careful about the products she’s allowed to use.”
In fact, skincare experts are sounding the alarm around awareness of active skincare ingredients and younger skin. “Products particularly targeting aging, such as retinol, exfoliating scrubs, eye cream or vitamin C serums are unnecessary, and potentially harmful, for younger consumers due to their potency and effects,” says Dr. Monica Li, a Vancouver-based double board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor in the Department of Dermatology and Skin Science at University of British Columbia. “Trending products or products from trending brands containing retinol and (alpha hydroxy acids/beta hydroxy acids) are best to avoid in young consumers due to their potency and effects, and risk of irritation, even when used in adults.”
Dr. Li points to a simple selection of products—a gentle moisturizer, cleanser and sunscreen—as a suitable option for young kids and tweens who are eager to incorporate skincare products into their hygiene routines. “A consistently used skincare routine focused on skin health is of value for the young to the old,” she confirms. Pointing to ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin and colloidal oatmeal as suitable picks for young skin that will support skin and skin barrier health, Dr. Li cautions that most trending skincare products aren’t tested for safety on young skin.
“Many skincare products for adults have not been evaluated in children and teens, so we don’t know if they are safe or tolerated by younger consumers,” Dr. Li explains. “There are sunscreens, moisturizers and cleansers which have been tested and formulated for use in infants and children. They tend to contain milder or gentler ingredients, are hypoallergenic (allergy tested) and specifically monitored for tolerability with use in these populations.”
While actives “can be considered” for younger patients based on individual skin needs—Dr. Li points to prescription-grade retinol versions that can be used safely and effectively in patients with acne as young as age nine—they should only be considered under the supervision and direction of a physician.
But the uncertainty of ingredient suitability has left some parents, like Nichol, questioning the packaging and marketing of products that catch the attention of younger eyes.
“Board games have age guidelines on the boxes; surely skincare products could do the same?” Nichol says. Recalling an incident where her husband took their daughter and her friend to Sephora in search of products they had discovered online, Nichol says she is thankful to a sales associate at the beauty retailer who stepped in to voice her concern about the suitability of the ingredients for their age.
“Both girls knew exactly what they wanted, brands and products. They brought their picks to the sales counter and that’s where the associate stopped them,” Nichol shares. “She said she couldn’t sell a few of the products to my daughter. I do not know for sure, but do not believe this is a companywide Sephora policy; I think it was simply a conscientious worker who did not think it right for an eight-year-old girl to be putting products with certain, highly active ingredients on her face.”
Contacted about a policy surrounding skincare sales to younger customers, Sephora declined to comment. The retailer does list Moisturizers for Kids on its site, with the advice that “the best moisturizers for kids are the ones that keep their skin hydrated, healthy and free of irritation.” Suggested products on the web page, which appear to be pulled from customer reviews that mention keywords such as “kids” and “teens”, include the Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Gel, First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration and Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Firming Refillable Moisturizer.
Available in Canada at Sephora, the brand Evereden is looking to take the guesswork out of skincare for kids, offering a selection of products specifically formulated for ages three and up. Curry says the selection of self-care products for kids was of interest to the retailer to fulfill an eagerness from Gen Alpha customers (those born between 2010 and 2024) in skincare products.
“Our kids’ skincare collection is a simple, two-step system to teach kids healthy habits and kickstart their skin health,” says Curry of the range. “This gentle, foaming cleanser and soothing face cream are developed and formulated to be safe and effective on young skin. They are infused with … a blend of vitamins, omegas and amino acids to give growing skin what it needs to be healthy.”
Evereden also offers options for haircare and “cosmetcis: products for kids such as face crayons and a tinted lip oil, with each product formulated “specifically for kids,” according to Curry. “Kids adore the line, and their parents appreciate that the products are age-appropriate, plant-derived and made especially for their changing skin.”
While the product availability at the popular beauty retailer undoubtedly helps parents better understand skincare suitability, Curry urges parents to do their homework before shopping for skincare products—and consult a dermatologist or physician if questions or concerns persist. Already noting an increase in inquiries about skincare from younger patients and parents at her practice, Dr. Li stresses the conversation about skincare products between tweens and adults presents the perfect opportunity for “healthy discussions” about good skin hygiene and care.
“We can support young (people) and tweens to ultimately select products they like, but guide the process as to which ones are good to use for a certain age,” she says. “And how to use them correctly.” —Aleesha Harris
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