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Dining & Wine

Rising Culinary Star Victoria Rinsma Heads To Milan As Canada’s S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Winner

November 4, 2024

Oakville’s Victoria Rinsma, a chef at Hexagon Restaurant, has been named the Canadian regional winner of the prestigious S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition 2024-25. In this Q&A, she shares insights into her winning dish, “Across the Sea and Home Again,” her journey to the top, and what’s next as she prepares for the Grand Finale in Milan. —Noa Nichol

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Can you share the inspiration behind your signature dish, Across the Sea and Home Again, and what it means to you personally?

“Across the Sea and Home Again” is a deeply personal dish that tells the story of my culinary journey. It’s a reflection of my growth, from my grandmother’s East Coast traditions to my current role at Hexagon Restaurant. The dish is divided into two parts: the first, a chawanmushi made with smoked ham hock, pays homage to my grandmother’s comforting split pea soup and my early career. The main course, featuring striped bass with nixtamalized butternut squash and preserved tomatoes, represents my current culinary identity, blending techniques and flavours learned at Hexagon with Canadian terroir. This dish is my tribute to the past, present, and the incredible journey in between.

What was the most challenging part of preparing for the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition, and how did you overcome it?

Refining my signature dish while staying true to my vision was challenging. Working with Executive Chef Rafael Covarrubias, a regional finalist who represented Canada at the San Pellegrino Young Chef Competition Grand Finale in 2019, provided invaluable guidance. His mentorship and belief in me, especially during moments of self-doubt, helped me overcome obstacles and refine my craft.

How has working under Executive Chef Rafael Covarrubias at Hexagon Restaurant influenced your culinary style and skills?

Meeting Chef Rafael in 2018, during my birthday dinner at Hexagon, marked the beginning of an incredible journey. Working together for six years, he’s become like family. He’s provided opportunities for growth, mentoring me from stages to Sous Chef. His expertise, guidance, and unwavering support have shaped my culinary style, emphasizing seasonal ingredients and innovative techniques.

What excites you most about representing Canada at the Grand Finale in Milan, and what are your goals for the competition?

Representing Canada at the Grand Finale is an honour! I’m excited to showcase Canadian cuisine and culinary talent globally. My goal is to make Canada proud, presenting a dish that highlights our flavours and tells a story. I aim to learn from international chefs, absorb the competition’s energy, and build connections with fellow professionals.

As a young chef in a highly competitive industry, what advice would you give to other aspiring chefs looking to make their mark?

Stay true to your passion and vision. Surround yourself with mentors and peers who inspire and support you. Experiment, take risks, and learn from failures – they’re invaluable opportunities for growth. Build relationships with local farmers, suppliers, and artisans to understand the importance of seasonal and sustainable ingredients. Remember why you started cooking – the love for food, people, and storytelling. Keep that flame burning.

Could you share a favorite recipe that embodies your culinary philosophy and approach to flavour?

My signature dish, “Across the Sea and Home Again,” embodies my culinary philosophy. The combination of smoked ham hock chawanmushi and striped bass with nixtamalized butternut squash reflects my journey and commitment to blending traditions with local, seasonal ingredients. This dish showcases Canadian flavours while highlighting the techniques and flavours I’ve learned throughout my career.

Below is a holiday side dish recipe Victoria shared.

Savoury Pain Perdu

  • 15 eggs
  • 1 L heavy whipping cream
  • 1/4L sugar
  • salt to taste
  • 3/4c celery small dice
  • 1/2 onion, small dice
  • 1 tbsp sage chopped 
  • 1/2 tbsp thyme
  • 3 cloves of garlic
  • brioche 1 loaf medium diced
  • sourdough 1 loaf medium diced
  • 2tbsp butter
  1. In a small pan, melt the butter on medium heat. Add the celery, garlic and onions and cook until translucent, no caramelization. Once translucent add the herbs and take off the heat.
  2. In a medium to large sized bowl, crack all of the eggs. Add the sugar and cream, whisk to combine. Once combined, add the sautéed aromatics and season with salt to your liking
  3. Mix in the bread making sure everything is coated
  4. Place mixture inside of a deep roasting dish lined with parchment paper and press down ensuring everything is flat, coated by liquid and will cook evenly. Place a sheet of parchment paper covering the top, wrap the dish in saran wrap and then in tin foil. 
  5. Bake in the oven at 375 for roughly an hour, or until the liquid has set. For some caramelization at the end, take the tin foil, saran wrap and parchment paper off of the top, put the oven at 400 and bake for another 15 minutes 
  6. You can either brush with a little bit of butter, sprinkle some maldon or finishing salt on top and serve and enjoy or you can let it cool and serve it the next day! 
  7. Additional tips! If serving the next day, you can also press it overnight in the fridge with something heavy in your fridge, and then slice it into portions and pan sear them in a little bit of oil and butter for extra caramelization and crispy edges! 

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