L’Abattoir’s wine program has long been a standout in British Columbia’s dining scene, and now, it has a new reason to celebrate. Head Sommelier Andrew Forsyth has been crowned Best Sommelier of BC at the prestigious annual competition hosted by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). The rigorous competition tested top wine professionals on their expertise, precision, and service skills, and Forsyth’s outstanding performance secured him the coveted title. In this exclusive Q&A, Andrew shares his thoughts on the win, the intensity of the competition, and what this recognition means for him and the team at L’Abattoir. —Noa Nichol
Congratulations on winning Best Sommelier of BC! Can you walk us through what the competition experience was like for you?
Thank you so much! The competition is always such an intense day. There’s a lot of excitement and anxiety throughout and always questions that you either don’t know or have to dig deep to find an answer. The biggest challenge is always the mock service. Just trying to stay composed throughout those 45 minutes knowing that you have a full room of your friends and colleagues watching your every move is always such a challenge.
The competition includes both theory and live service challenges. Which part was the most difficult, and how did you prepare for it?
Although service is definitely nerve racking, theory is my biggest challenge. There is a lot to know about the world of wine and it’s a landscape that keeps on growing and changing with every harvest. I spent a lot of time pouring over regional wine websites, Guildsomm and Jancis Robinson’s World Atlas of Wine. There was also a lot of pacing around my apartment with handfuls of flashcards to study.
You mentioned competing alongside talented sommeliers like Olivia Delisle. How does camaraderie play a role in the sommelier community, even in a competitive setting?
Camaraderie is huge – especially in Vancouver! It was wonderful to have a Team L’Abattoir this year with Olivia – she’s only been at her wine studies for 6 months and I’m so proud of her progress and tenacity. I was also thrilled to share the stage this year with two friends in Michael and Esme and I wouldn’t have gotten anywhere close to where I am now without my tasting group.
Our wine community here is one of the best and has always had a ‘tide that raises all ships’ approach. A lot of us study, taste, travel and work together regularly so there’s always been a spirit of helping each other develop and succeed.
Winning this title is a huge accomplishment. What does it mean to you personally and professionally?
This still feels so big. Personally, it has been so incredibly gratifying to have so many people reach out from across Canada to pass along congratulations. Professionally, I can’t wait to see what doors this might open to learn, travel and develop even further in this craft.
L’Abattoir has been recognized for its outstanding wine program for years. How does your role as Head Sommelier contribute to maintaining such a high standard?
I know that the list that I curate is a part of that recognition but achieving that award takes an amazing team and is always a team win. The level of knowledge, care and service excellence that Michelle Haynes, Catherine Côte-Martel and Roger Maniwa have brought to our floor every night is truly inspiring.
Gastown’s dining scene is constantly evolving. How do you curate a wine selection that reflects both the restaurant’s identity and Vancouver’s growing wine culture?
I think that the best way to find a confluence between restaurant identity and engagement in Vancouver is to find those bottles that you are excited about sharing, that have a story to be told, and bring a guest’s culinary experience to another level in working with the food. I am always very present to the idea that the wines have to go with our cuisine and Chefs Lee Cooper and Charlie Kunsang are true artists.
What trends in the wine industry are you most excited about right now, and how do you see them influencing wine programs in fine dining?
I think that the most exciting trend to me right now is seeing so many amazing young wine writers who are inspiring and engaging – people like Kate Dingwall at Forbes/WE, Pascaline Lepeltier (who’s book I’m currently reading) and Jon Bonné have created such an amazing space for anyone who loves wine and wants to learn. They are all incredible at inspiring discovery and sharing stories about the land, the people and the grapes behind the label.
Many guests may not be familiar with the expertise that goes into being a top sommelier. What’s something about your profession that people might not realize?
A lot of my friends outside of the industry are surprised by how much studying it takes to keep up with the wine world. Every year there is always an incredible amount of new producers, harvest conditions, or appellation laws that change that keep you constantly studying.
I find a lot of people are also surprised by how much more than wine somms have to know about. I’m constantly working on tea, coffee, sake, spirits, cocktails – there was even a cigar question on my exam this year!
What advice would you give to aspiring sommeliers who are looking to compete at a high level or build a career in wine?
Take an introductory wine course with great instructors and then try to register for every tasting event that you can. In short, say yes to everything because everyone in this industry has something to teach you!
Now that you’ve won Best Sommelier of BC, what’s next for you? Are there more competitions or professional goals on the horizon?
Nationals are one short year away so I will be putting a lot of focus on that and I will need to work on my service in French for that. More immediately, the Advanced Theory Exam for the Court of Master Sommeliers is next month and I plan to sit that as well.
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