Trenches With a Twist

It likely comes as no surprise: trench coats were big news on SS17 runways. The mid-season classic piece hokey-pokeys on and off catwalks every couple of years and, even if it’s not strictly in fashion, it’s always in style. What defines the trench? Our favourite hoity-toity online men’s magazine, Gentleman’s Gazette, says its distinguising features are a tan or khaki colour, buckled belt and wrist straps, that it should be double breasted with a double yoke across the back of the shoulders, epaulettes and is waterproof.

It was invented by Thomas Burberry more than 150 years ago and remains a staple. Why? “It’s double breasted so it’s practical. The belt keeps the warmth in and the cold out, and the double yoke and wrist straps protect you from the rain. The epaulettes are handy to stop shoulder bags slipping down and they make your shoulders look bigger and your waist, smaller,” says fashion historian Ivan Sayers. And what’s the appeal in fashion terms? “It’s got this international and glamorous feel and the association with Hollywood—it was worn by everyone from Humphrey Bogart to Katherine Hepburn,” he explains. “And, ultimately, it’s just a good design.”

Yet for 2017, brands decided it was ripe for reinvention. Balenciaga oversized the shoulders, Marni deconstructed it, Michael Kors gave it a gorgeous asymmetric hemline and Hermès turned it pink. Here are our favourite four from the high street, with apologies to Mr. Burberry. —Aileen Lalor

sage advice. It’s sage green, not tan or khaki, the shape is not structured and it’s not waterproof, either. There isn’t even a belt! Yet the cuff straps and large lapels on this COS Cotton Linen Unstructured Coat With Cuff Straps ($250) give it a trench-like feel and it would make a perfect cover-up for a warm spring day or a cool summer evening. cosstores.com

get crepe, wear crepe. A more traditional shape with buckled wrist straps and belt, but this Caterina Trench Coat ($395) is made from Terado: a unique-to-Babaton fabric that’s matte crepe on one side and smooth satin on the other. The material means it’s relaxed and flowy, but it still has a smart, tailored look. It comes in black and kohl (dark grey). aritzia.com

classic, rocked. This Coach 1941 Icon Trench With Rivets ($800) bears most of the hallmarks of the iconic trench—the structured cut, khaki colour, stiff cotton fabric, double breast, belt and even epaulettes—but is given a rock ‘n’ roll twist with metal stars, hearts and studs on the collar and belt. coach.com

slinky devil. This Cheap Monday Flavor Trench ($330) is made from Lyocell, a fabric with a slinky, silky feel, and has oversized lapels, no buckle on the belt and overlong sleeves with buttoned wrist-straps. It’s more drapy than structured, though it does have the double yoke and comes in the requisite tan colour. shopbop.com