We’d take Paris in any iteration, but back in the day the Left Bank was the fun one. Its intrinsically exciting character inspired restaurateur John Blakely when conceiving the menu for Denman Street’s new bistro.
The classics are there, but Left Bank isn’t your average steak frites joint. Items like duck confit ($19) come thrown in a curve ball of tempura, Morrocan lamb tagine ($21) is a contemporary, confidently spiced colonial reference, and Sockeye with lyonnaise potatoes ($21) makes perfection look easy (how French). We loved the cripsy crab roll and potato salad starter ($13) “it’s like if a crab went on a picnic,” explained chef Spencer Watts, the mastermind behind pommes frites sprinkled with powered black sesame. The space itself, with red banquettes, people-watching windows, the city’s sole laneway patio and a bar that serves fresh figs, has atmosphere to spare. What takes the cake? It’s the actual cake. Order the chocolate marquis ($7) served creatively with matcha ice cream and fresh marshmallow.
We proclaimed it was our new boyfriend and mourned its completion. —Adrienne Matei
Left Bank, 751 Denman Street, www.leftbankvancouver.com
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