The New Acadia

The last thing Toronto needs is another rustic, wood-clad, downtempo
Italian restaurant. How lovely, then, that just-opened Acadia
is rustic, wood-clad, downtempo Nu-French and Southern American instead.

Inspired by southeasterly flavours, chef Matt Blondin and Scott
Selland have come up with Acadia,
a humbly decorated, off-College spot with a legit interesting menu (and,
as is de rigeur these days, a good old-fashioned cocktail
list). Dishes smoke and crackle with down-South flavours; even an
uncomplicated summer salad gets lively with coffee-infused vinaigrette.
More vegetable sides might be nice; currently, you can get
licorice-creamed collard greens ($5) and/or cornbread fingers ($4, with
sweet potato to dip; too good). My companion loved his sticky veal ribs
($26), but the menu’s not too meaty; I narrowly chose speckled trout
(accompanied by oyster mayo, sunchoke relish and charred scallion) over
the red grouper. Plus, three of five starters are seafood-based,
including shrimp-n-grits ($12). Next time! I’m also going back for
dessert: A chocolate bar with peanuts and roasted-banana ice cream ($8).

Acadia, it’s kinda like a road trip in your mouth.
Sarah Nicole
Prickett

Acadia Restaurant & Bar, 50C Clinton St., Toronto, 416-792-6002, www.acadiarestaurant.com