new ROOTS

As the adage goes, out with the old and in with the new. On McGill Street, that means good-bye Louigis and hello Racines.

Truth be told, its tough to be nostalgic when the new restaurants dive-y pizza joint past is 100 per cent unrecognizable in the cozy and sleek decor.

And then, of course, theres the food. Chef Simon Mathys, formerly of Bar & Boeuf, has concocted a menu of small plates that arent meant for sharing: Just mix and match any three to create your custom meal.

For us, highlights included the carrot tart with raw shavings and milk ($6) and albacore tuna with red kuri squash and pumpkin seeds ($10) while our date was all about his blood pudding with turnip ($11) and veal sweetbreads ($15) a far (and delicious) cry from greasy diner staples.

The best thing about being too stuffed for dessert? We have a great excuse to go back. Christine Laroche

444 McGill, Montreal, 514-544-0444, www.racines.ca