Perfectly Puerto Rico

From beaches to rainforests, surfing to salsa, there’s much to see and do in Puerto Rico that it can be difficult (nay, impossible) to fit it all into one trip. As first-timers, we planted ourselves in Isla Verda—a beach strip dense with hotels—and made day trips from there. —Karen Kwan

sip. We have Puerto Rico to thank for Jennifer Lopez, Ricky Martin—and pina coladas! Though you can (and should) sample this tropical cocktail around the island, start from its origins in Barrachina in Old San Juan, where the sweet drink is thick, frosty and and topped with a maraschino cherry and cocktail umbrella.

savour. Make like a local and stop into a chinchorro (a casual bar with inexpensive beer and food); better yet, make it a chinchorreo (bar hopping from one chinchorro to the next). For an upscale dinner, book a table at trendy Santaella, where the chef gives local dishes a modern twist. Try the croquetas and ceviche to start and move on to the fried red snapper with herb chimichurri (this fresh and crispy dish will likely ruin your ability to enjoy the fish anywhere else). For lunch the vibe at Que PezCa’o is casual, and the fish tacos, ceviche nachos and friendly service are exceptional.

see. Tear yourself away from the beach to explore the tropical El Yunque rainforest—nearly 29,000 acres featuring hundreds of tree species, mist from the Juan Diego waterfall (climb onto the rocks for a closer look and a better photo opp, just don’t slip) and the white clouds for which the rainforest is named. Book a nighttime kayak excursion at Laguna Grande; paddling through the quiet mangrove forest is magical in itself and, once you enter the bay, your guides will bring you to an area where a sweep of your hand in the water will reveal a glow thanks to bioluminescence from a concentration of plankton in the water (or, if you prefer, pixie dust).

salsa. The birthplace of salsa music, Puerto Rico is not short on hot spots to listen and dance to this infectious fusion of Cuban, jazz and funk. On Thursdays and weekend nights head to Placita de Santurce, where the music spills out onto the streets and people dance and drink their way around the neighbourhood.To catch a band, the Nuyorican Cafe in Old San Juan is a cosy spot offering free salsa dance lessons on Wednesday and Friday nights, 9 p.m.

sweat. While most of the surfing in Puerto Rico is concentrated along the western coast, a few spots offer surf lessons on the beach in Isla Verde, where the waves are moderate and manageable for beginners. Or, skip surfing and get your adventure fix by reserving a spot with Ecoquest to hike, rappel and zipline in the Carite Reserve—just be sure to bring a towel and a change of clothes as you’ll be walking through a river and journeying through a waterfall.