Storm-watching season in Tofino means it’s time to go wild. —Kelsey Klassen
Stay: Locals rank the rustic (and pet-friendly) Long Beach Lodge as one of the top three waterfront resorts in Tofino, which means you’re getting more than just a relaxing stay surrounded by the rugged beauty of the Pacific Rim—you’re getting right into it. Gazing out the floor-to-ceiling windows of the award-winning Great Room restaurant and lounge, the expansive sandy shores of Cox Bay give way to thundering beach break and the spectacle of dozens of surfers gliding across the pristine, gunmetal grey waves. If cold-weather water sports aren’t your thing, though (Tofino isn’t nicknamed Tuff City for nothing), there is a colossal stone fireplace for one to sit hearthside and take in the pounding seas. Or you can enjoy the view from your room: with 41 spacious suites and 20 private cottages on offer, you’ll feel like you have the entire West Coast to yourself. 1441 Pacific Rim Highway, Tofino, B.C. 1-877-844-7873. Longbeachlodgeresort.com
Surf’s up at Long Beach Lodge. Image: Kelsey Klassen
Savour: Designed to feel more like a living room than a restaurant, the Great Room’s casual cabin-chic atmosphere belies the incredible cuisine. Locavore chef Ian Riddick is known to lead culinary foraging adventures from the lodge this time of year, and his passion and artistry show through in every dish, whether you’re experiencing the flavours of the region with an amuse-bouche of wild mushrooms, or dipping your lamb sirloin into an exquisite oxtail jus. And just 15 minutes down the road in the heart of Tofino sits Wolf in the Fog. Named Canada’s best new restaurant by enRoute in 2014, the bold décor and locally-focused share plates will guide your palate on a wilderness adventure. Start with the vibrant Bamfield seaweed salad and Pollock-esque potato-crusted oysters, and then dive into the pickled herring for an unforgettable taste of the surrounding sea.150 Fourth St., Tofino. 1-250-725-WOLF (9653). Wolfinthefog.com
Pickled herring. Image: Wolf in the Fog
The Great Room at Long Beach Lodge. Image: Long Beach Lodge
Sip: Wolf in the Fog can hang at least half of its accolades on bar manager Hailey Pasemko’s dynamic cocktail list. Sticking with the wild and wilderness theme of the weekend, we raised a glass to her extrasensory Cedar Sour. Made just like it sounds—with cedar-infused rye, lemon, thyme and egg white—the cocktail invoked the majesty of the Island’s soaring cedar groves while playing surprising tricks with the tastebuds. For those looking for a nautical experience, you can also set sail with the Wolf’s playful spiked-punch punch bowls for two. (Fun fact: Many Tofino restaurants have gone sustainably straw-free, so this oversized beverage comes with straws of the paper variety.) Meanwhile, after a big day of surfing, nothing tastes better than a bottle of kelp stout. Created by the beloved Tofino Brewing Company, this beer is a chocolatey, chestnutty seasonal delight with a briny West Coast twist. 681 Industrial Way, Tofino. 1-250-725-2899. Tofinobrewingco.com
Cedar Sour. Image: Wolf in the Fog
Tofino Brewing’s Kelp Stout. Image: Kelsey Klassen
Do: No visit to Tofino is complete without an ocean voyage, and there are dozens of tours to choose from that put you in the thick of the ocean swells; but why not make your time on the water restful and restorative as well? Enter Hot Springs Cove. Just a 90-minute boat ride past the hushed islands and mist-shrouded First Nations communities of Clayoquot Sound, this intimate hot springs experience ($99 with Ocean Outfitters) is one of the natural wonders of the B.C. coast. The water—flowing out of a crevice in the ground right next to the manmade boardwalk and rustic changing areas—is geothermally heated to around 109 degrees C, and slowly cools as it makes its timeworn journey down rocks and ferns and waterfalls to the sea. It can get crowded, but be patient; if you can’t grab a spot in a deep pool right away, everyone is very considerate of moving around and sharing the space. On the way back, be sure to watch for frolicking otters and diving grey whales—you might just get two tours for the price of one. 368 Main St., Tofino. 1-250-725-2866. Oceanoutfitters.bc.ca
The waterfall at Hot Springs Cove. Image: Kelsey Klassen
One of four whales we spotted on the way home. Image: Kelsey Klassen
Don’t miss: Surfing. November is when the waves are just starting to get good, and a guided surf lesson from Long Beach Lodge’s spa-like Surf Club Adventure Centre will help you find the perfect conditions for your thrill and skill level. Kept almost unseasonably warm by our wetsuits and hoods, we basked in the best Chesterman Beach had to throw at us, longboarding along wave after consistent wave. And as much as we love the five-hour drive to Tofino through old-growth forests and quaint Island towns, the best way to say goodbye to your wild and stormy weekend is with a final, longing look from the air. With flights running daily, Orca Air connects you from YVR South to Long Beach Airport in just over an hour, giving you the first and last glimpse of the waves from the wing. Flights from $175. 1-888-359-6722. Flyorcaair.com
Après-surf at the Surf Club Adventure Centre. Image: Long Beach Lodge
Orca Air. Image: Kelsey Klassen
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