The show must go on! Although some brands opted to delay or not show this season following the passing of Queen Elizabeth II, many continued as scheduled. Heartfelt nods were showcased throughout London Fashion Week as designers included looks to honour the late monarch. We loved the Erdem collection, with models wearing long black veils in the finale, and JW Anderson, who sent out models in T-shirts that read, “The Queen, Thank You.” While there was a somber tone in the U.K., London designers lit up the catwalk with dazzling and delightful creations. London is always a feast for the eyes, and Spring 2023 was no exception. —Lyndi Barrett
molly goddard. The layers of colourful tulle wafting down the Molly Goddard runway were captivating to watch. The show space was a large gymnasium with the collection taking up the full room. The clean, beige colour palette quickly transformed into an explosion of tones. Deep orange, bright pink with pops of acid green and yellow—there is always a sense of joy in Molly Goddard’s collections.Molly noted that Charles James is always an inspiration for her, focusing on silhouette and proportion. “I’m interested in the exploration of creating shapes on the body, changing proportions of the body. That element inspired this season, pushing fabrics to their extremes, utilising the qualities of each fabric, and letting it do the work. There is juxtaposition in the fabric choices, intricately cut evening dresses in cotton, ball-gowns in jersey.” The designer is also known for her voluminous gowns, and this season’s creations were spectacular. We loved the mix of glamourous tulle, peppered in with more casual cotton fabrics. “I was thinking about red carpets pre-internet. These are images I love and often go to for inspiration, dressing felt more for the party and for yourself. Much more casual, laid back. No step and repeat and no posing. People looked like they were out to have fun.”
simone rocha. There was a standing ovation at Simone Rocha’s show. The Irish designer took her collection to court, hosting the show in The Old Bailey—the location of Britain’s criminal trials and a London landmark. At only 36, Rocha’s brand has garnered international attention, a sold-out collaboration with H&M along with a very sought-after list of celebrity clientele.The collection featured a soft, feminine colour palette with pretty floral prints scattered throughout. Ruffles of fabric expertly layered created a sweetness to the looks, juxtaposed with menswear and sporty aspects.The parachute straps, bubble bomber jackets and aviation details created a utilitarian vibe to an otherwise very romantic collection. The accessories were a true standout this season. We loved the designer’s iconic egg purse, created in pearl and decorated with gems, along with backpacks accessorized with ribbon details and pearl-encrusted straps. This show marked the debut of Simone’s menswear collection. Her distinctive feminine aesthetic blended beautifully into this new collection.
rixo. Created by best friends Henrietta Rix & Orlagh McCloskey, RIXO was born from a passion for vintage clothing. Always inclusive with a focus on empowerment, RIXO creates items in unique prints, in timeless silhouettes in sizes six to 24.This season, the collection was called Postcards from Goa, inspired by a trip to the region. While visiting this beachy bohemian location in India, the duo noticed the similarities in the style to what they love to create at RIXO. The intricate ceramics and tile patterns, the bright, bold buildings in the town, along with the beautiful sunny skies and ocean views of Goa. These shapes, scenes and colours influenced their signature prints this season. During the presentation, models danced, laughed and truly embraced the RIXO aesthetic. “We wanted to bring our wearers joy and happiness when they wore our SS23 collection, creating prints and pieces that felt unique to RIXO’s DNA,” says Orlagh. “We’ve worked really hard to introduce so many gorgeous new shapes and details this season and we’re excited to show these to our #humansofRIXO.”
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