Copenhagen today is the essence of northern cool. This nation of storytellers churns out film, TV and novels, while "new Nordic cuisine" wins medals and Danish architects create structures with "hedonistic sustainability." Great design, mouthwatering food and good times: that’s the Danish way.
stay: Follow Hans Christian Anderson Boulevard to Copenhagen’s central downtown square, Radhuspladsen, where The Square Hotel is perfect, small and includes breakfast on its airy rooftop: breads, cheeses, pastries, eggs, sliced meats and the best coffee ever. The Square Hotel, Rådhuspladsen 14, 1550 København V, Denmark, +45 33 38 12 00, www.thesquarecopenhagen.com
sightsee: Viking Queen Margrethe’s downtown residence, Amalienborg, with its soaring green and gold church spire, is the tallest structure in town. No glittering glass towers in this ancient city: just well-preserved antiquity, plus playful, eco-friendly structures by Denmark’s amazing roster of architects, and the best way to check ’em out is by cab. Or, take the train from downtown to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art—a large seaside estate converted into a stunningly beautiful museum boasting unique viewing spaces and several rooms given over to concept pieces, like "Riverbed" (literally an indoor stream) by Danish installation artist Olafur Eliasson. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Gl Strandvej 13, 3050 Humlebæk, Denmark +45 49 19 07 19, http://en.louisiana.dk
shop: Walk Stroget, the pedestrian street, to Harbour Square to find Lego, H&M and Georg Jensen. Head down nearby cobblestoned side streets where basement restaurants, wine shops and other interesting boutiques are located. Don’t miss Politikens Boghal—a great bookstore that’s all glass floors and stairways and full of European art and design mags, plus a grand collection of translated works by modern Danish authors. Politikens Boghal, Rådhuspladsen 37, 1785 København K, 30 67 28 06, https://politikensforlag.dk
sip: Danes are allowed to drink beer on the street, and they do. The town is dotted with micro-breweries, each with their own cosy pub attached. Mikkeller & Friends, for one, is a sleek bar painted pale turquoise with blonde-wood accents and 40 taps pouring an ever-changing selection of rare craft beers, like Mikkeller’s own Orange Yuzu Glad I Said Porter. Mikkeller & Friends, Stefansgade 35, 2200 København, Denmark, +45 35 83 10 20, http://mikkeller.dk
sup: For fancy eats it doesn’t get better than Noma, voted the top restaurant in the world four times—but it’s difficult to get a table. Fortunately, there are many fine eateries in the city that subscribe to the same concept of serving local, seasonal, sustainable, authentic and creative cuisine: Radio for rad vegetarian food, and a cool jazz bar called The Standard. For old-school fare (smorrebrod, akvavit and beer) check out the historic (circa 1671) Gammeltorv, or head to chic brasserie Tivoli, located right inside the oldest amusement park in Europe. Tivoli Brasserie, Arni Magnussons Gade 2 1577 Copenhagen V, +45 4487 0000, www.tivolibrasserie.com
Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen! —Pia Shandel

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