As we step into the colder months of the year, it’s the right time to make seasonal switches in your skincare routine. When the seasons shift, your skin’s needs change, too. Recently, a new skincare trend called “skin cycling” has been the newest TikTok hype with good reviews, which is a four-day regimen that alternates between using active ingredients and letting the skin rest. But what we’re all wondering is, does this work? Is there legitimacy to the skin cycling process? Olay’s principal beauty scientist Dr. Rolanda Wilkerson has the answer to this; read our interview with her, below! —Noa Nichol
Hi Dr. Wilkerson! Please tell us a bit about yourself to start.
I am a beauty scientist with a PhD in Chemistry. I’ve been in the Beauty Industry for nearly 19 years. Throughout my career, I’ve worked with other scientist, engineers, clinicians and dermatologists to help create and develop new hair and skin products. I am also responsible for communicating the benefits and science behind our products to media, influencers and consumers. I am a passionate advocate of STEM with a focus on encouraging and mentoring the younger generation in the area of science.
Why does a change of season necessitate a change in our skincare routine? What does the coming of winter often mean, in terms of how we care for our skin?
The skin prefers constancy, so when elements such as weather change on a dime, it’s like a jolt to the system. When the temperature outside is hot and humid, your skin can produce more oil, which can result in an oily sheen. Alternatively, when the temperature is cooler and perhaps the radiators are on more, the low air humidity causes moisture in your skin to drain faster, making your skin drier. Traditionally, during the winter people have looked to heavier, cream-based moisturizers to lock moisture into your skin without stripping it of its natural oils. With time comes more effective skin technologies. Scientists have now incorporated light weight gel-based moisturizers to deliver and lock in long lasting hydration like Olay’s Hyaluronic + Peptide24 Facial Moisturizer. Look for products that have ingredients that will trap moisture. These actives will lock in moisture and reduce trans-epidermal water loss from the skin’s surface cellular layers.
What’s “skin cycling,” and why is it trending? Does it work, and is it worth a try?
Skin cycling is one of many different types of skincare trends that focuses on exfoliation and retinoids. The skin cycling trend consists of a four-night skin-care practice with two nights of skin care treatments followed by two nights of recovery. The concept of skin cycling seeks to achieve a balance between two effective yet potentially irritating ingredients when not used properly. The trend of alternating the use of exfoliant and retinol—and following them up with two nights of recovery—has been credited with allowing the skin time to build tolerances and reduces the potential of overdoing it. This can be especially useful for those with sensitive skin. It is important to note that there are products that have been designed with alpha hydroxy acids like Lactic acid and retinoid complexes that are safe for daily use especially when sun protection is applied in the morning. Retinol and alpha hydroxy acids can increase skin UV sensitivity and exposure. When SPF protection is applied daily, skin’s sensitivity is reduced. Skin cycling may be quite successful since it allows your face to recuperate from more potent skin ingredients like glycolic acid. However, if used too frequently, they may be highly unpleasant to many individuals. Applying too much too often might result in irritated, tight, or dry skin; those with darker skin tones, in particular, are at a higher risk of hyperpigmentation when using these products excessively and skin is exposed to sun. Skin cycling allows you to receive the advantages of these (sometimes expensive) treatments while reducing the danger of irritating side effects.
If we want to try skin cycling ourselves at home, how do you recommend we do it, and what are some dos and don’ts?
There are no set do’s and don’t’s when it comes to skin cycling. How you “skin cycle” really depends on your skin needs and the types of products you select. The most important thing to remember is if you are using a high concentration alpha hydroxy acid, is that it is important to use an SPF and allow the skin to heal. The key words in skin cycling, especially for those with sensitive skin are rest and reset. Allowing the skin to recuperate is beneficial, especially for people with sensitive skin. During treatment and recovery nights, you should concentrate on nourishing your skin and restoring your skin barrier—think hydration and moisture. First night of skin cycling is exfoliation night, so get ready to cleanse your pores and peel away dead, dull skin. First, rinse your skin with a light face cleanser and pat it dry. Following that, use a leave-on chemical exfoliator, such as a serum. Chemical exfoliants formulated in daily-use moisturizers (like Olay Vit-C with AHA Facial Moisturizer) are safe to use daily or cycle in and out depending on desired skin benefits. Exfoliating scrubs can also be an option especially if they are designed to be gentle on skin (like Olay Exfoliating scrub with dissolvable beads), if physical exfoliants are used, make sure they have been formulated to be gentle. Some chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid can come in high concentrations. Higher concentrations of AHA in products that do not deliver moisturization (e.g., liquid form) can be irritating to the skin. Exfoliants should not produce severe burning or immediate inflammation; if this occurs, wipe it off immediately. (A little tingling is normal and nothing to be concerned about.) Before going to bed, apply a moisturizer to seal everything in. The second night of the skin cycling trend is focused on retinol. Retinoids are a form of vitamin A that have been traditionally used to treat acne. Retinoids promote skin cellular turnover, strengthen the skin barrier and protect against trans epidermal water loss. Retinoids have also been credited with reducing hyperpigmentation and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. One of the most effective ingredients to incorporate in your skin cycling program is retinoids. Olay’s Retinol 24 Night Face Serum delivers all these benefits without tradeoffs and is safe for daily use. Thoroughly wash your face first and dry before applying the retinoid. Use an amount that is appropriate for your skin. Traditionally, it’s been said that a pea-sized amount of retinoid is enough to cover the entire face will suffice. No matter the amount you use, it’s important to follow-up with a moisturizing SPF in the morning. The third and fourth nights of skin cycling are all about resting your skin. It calls for a regimen of washing your face and applying any moisturizing serums or moisturizers that do not include high concentration active ingredients such as those listed above. However, it is worth noting that retinoid complexes like the one in the Olay Retinol24 product contains a blend of retinol propionate (RP), a retinol ester, and retinol. RP has the right molecular weight to remain stable and be delivered into the skin in an active form with fewer trade-offs vs retinol alone. If skin sensitivities are a concern, look for fragrance-free products. Products with skin-repairing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, niacinamide, peptides and vitamin C are great to build into your skin cycling regimen depending on the benefits you are seeking (e.g. even skin tone, reducing fine lines, smoothing, and increased hydration). It is important to note that you don’t have to avoid exfoliating acids and retinoids when they are formulated in moisturizing skin care products with additional skin actives like niacinamide. These formulas are designed to be gentle enough to be used on a daily basis with sun protection during the day. However, if you feel like you need to give your skin “time to heal” and you notice skin sensitivities, by all means do so. Then repeat.
Talking trends in general, what’s your advice around experimenting with things with see on social, when it comes to our skin?
Please always consider what is best for your skin needs, concerns and skin type. As with any new regimen that involves high dosage/potency ingredients and products that are not designed for daily use, please consult with a Dermatologist, especially if you have sensitive skin concerns.
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