New Eats: Ed’s Daily Commissary

Above the door to Ed’s Daily Commissary is a dusty blue awning decorated, naturally, with the silhouette of a bird.

The effect is Portlandia 101, but the new Railtown cafe’s far too sweet to snark about. Their big, open kitchen features a minimalist mural (bird again, pearched atop a cleaver) by local artist Steph McDonell, floors are in diamond pattern linoleum and the historic bricks of their walls survived the great fire of 1886. Collectively, the effect is of a dream middle-school cafeteria; where meals (still served from behind glass cases) are fresh, healthy and delicious and you can maybe pass napkin-scrawled notes with your cute neighbour. Daily lunch specialities announced via Instagram (trending) are pitch-perfect; our visit saw well-spiced tomato-poached Baja chicken tacos with a napa and red cabbage slaw, avocado and a side of kale-laced cilantro-lime rice. Previous listings reveal wok-fried kung pao noodles with fresh vegetables and shrimp, cheese steak and fries, and thyme chicken breast with citrus-pistachio couscous and pickled cabbage. Gluten-free cornflake cookies and raspberry tarts alongside locally-roasted Matchstick coffee make for a sweet note to end on, and takeout sandwiches and salads (try the kale-soba noodle with chunks of sautéed zucchini) are great to squirrel off to your desk. Ed’s breakfasts are homey and good; a house-baked chive biscuit with pancetta and egg, or some avocado toast start your day off encouragingly.

In fact, with its welcoming atmosphere and tasty meals, the whole spot feels like getting an affable chuck on the shoulder. —Adrienne Matei

Ed’s Daily Commissary, 686 Powell St., 604 424 8708, www.edsdaily.com. Monday to Friday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.