Most of us have heard about dermaplaning—the popular exfoliation technique that involves using a sterile blade to gently remove dead skin cells and fine vellus hair (peach fuzz) from the face. Praised for its ability to create a smoother surface for makeup application and reveal a brighter complexion, this non-invasive treatment is often sought for achieving a fresh, glowing look. While many people rave about its immediate results, others question its long-term benefits and potential drawbacks. We spoke to founder of beauty brand The SkinGirls, Lisa-Marie Blair, about why she does not offer dermaplaning among many beneficial skin treatments and experiences at her Vancouver clinic. —Vita Daily
You’ve mentioned that you’re not a fan of dermaplaning and don’t offer it in your practice. Can you share more about your specific concerns with this treatment?
We at the Skingirls have always only offered treatments we can stand behind. At the end of the day all you have is your word and your reputation. I started this business to address the concerns that people have with their skin (and body). Our mission has always been for our clients to leave feeling that they have succeeded in that goal.
Now, this is my opinion and I can only speak from my experience as well as speaking to other professionals in the industry, because I try all treatments on myself before offering them to clients. I did try dermaplaning. I first tried it in 2021 and wish I hadn’t. I’ve never had coarse hair on my face but like most people, I did have peach fuzz. My impression and assessment of the treatment is that caused the hairs to grow back darker and thicker. I would suggest if you absolutely can’t live with the peach fuzz, electrolysis is my recommendation. If the hair is dark and coarse then I would suggest laser hair removal. We have a state of the art hair removal laser device which works incredibly well on all skin types and clients are thrilled with their outcomes.
Your friend’s electrolysis studio has seen increased business since dermaplaning became popular. Can you explain the connection you see between these two services?
After my personal negative experience with dermaplaning, I started asking colleagues in the industry for their feedback. I was saddened to hear that I was not the only one to experience unwanted coarse dark hair growth post dermaplaning. In fact, my colleagues electrolysis studio has seen an influx of clients after receiving this service. We, too, have seen an increase in requests for facial laser hair removal after getting deplainning done.
I am not saying this happens to everyone but I do feel this is not a chance worth taking. We aren’t offering and will not be offering this treatment. And we consistently explain to our clients why we do not offer it and do suggest the alternatives. We want to make things better, not risk making it worse!
Dermaplaning is often praised for how it enhances makeup application. What alternative treatments do you recommend that can achieve similar results without the potential drawbacks?
I do agree your makeup application will look smoother and more even once your peach fuzz is gone, but at what cost? In my opinion, A good alternative to removing that “peach fuzz” without the drawback I experienced would be electrolysis. You should of course see a certified and experienced electrologist.
What are the potential long-term effects of dermaplaning that you believe are often overlooked or not widely discussed?
Let’s take the example of microbladed brows: how many of us have brow regrets? How many of us are currently getting those microbladed brows removed? Clients have come in having tried to remove those microbladed brows and are now left with brows that are yellow in colour. Needless to say, they aren’t happy.
For clients who are fans of dermaplaning, how do you approach discussing your concerns with them, and what alternatives do you suggest?
Like any treatment, I always share my personal experience with them. I let them know their risk/reward ratio. Do you really want someone touching your face and feeling that prickly hair on your face? Do you really want to risk your hair growing back thicker, coarser? Do you want to risk having to shave your face every single day?
In your professional opinion, what should people consider before deciding to undergo dermaplaning? Are there specific skin types or conditions that are particularly risky?
Active acne should absolutely avoid this treatment. The risk of spreading the bacteria is very high.
Sensitive skin should also avoid this treatment. This treatment can exacerbate the issues you are already having.
Because dermaplaning removes the top layer which acts as a barrier, it leaves your skin more vulnerable to inflammation, irritation, and acne.
The skincare industry is full of trends. How do you determine which treatments to offer or avoid in your practice? What factors influence your decisions?
I ALWAYS try new, trending treatments myself. I’ve had really bad experiences/outcomes. Some of which I am still trying to correct. I cannot and will not offer a treatment I can’t stand behind just because it’s trendy, or in demand. Even if we get asked about it daily. I truly believe this is why we have built a loyal following who have supported us and trusted us to lead them in the right direction since we opened our doors in 2013.
Given the rise in popularity of dermaplaning, what do you think has driven this trend, and do you foresee any changes in consumer attitudes toward this service in the future?
I do think we will continue to see a rise in people who regret receiving this treatment. Luckily, there are treatment options such as laser hair removal and electrolysis.
If a client has undergone dermaplaning and is experiencing unwanted side effects, what steps do you recommend they take to address these issues?
Seek advice from a trained professional – not TikTok. In all seriousness, speak to a certified medical aesthetician or dermatologist who can discuss treatment options with you.
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