A recent Monday began not at our desk, but rather calf-deep in North Van ferny underbrush with Jackson-Triggs Estate head chef Tim Mackiddie and renown forager Terry Culp, whose proficiency for identifying edibles in the forest earns him a living (as well as nods from publications like The New Yorker). MacKiddie, here from his home of Niagra for a short spell, is excitedly nipping spring’s first stinging nettle leaves from their celery-green stems. He likes them for making pesto, "But you can use them anywhere you would kale," he explains (is it wrong that we think, "smoothie"?). We use light vinyl gloves to protect from the plant’s namesake barbs; they’re a little feisty, but their active, bitter-herbal flavour makes them a culinary popular-kid, especially of late, as foraged foods have become an increasing focus for local restaurants. Culp, for his part, is happily chatting away about the variety of species you can find growing across the Lower Mainland (nobody recommends whipping up a salad out of Stanley Park, but with oyster mushrooms and miners lettuce springing up, you probably could). Culp began his business as a teen, when he took a pack of German golfers visiting the golf course his parents owned out to find morels in the woods. Now, he’s telling me how to spot a perfect fiddlehead. "They snap when you pick them, like a pea, and you always have to leave two or three behind, or you kill the plant," he explains. Blanched, then sautéed in butter, fiddleheads are like asparagus (in the fetal position); an ephemeral delicacy you can only get this time of year (good to know). We also learned that if you are stung by a nettle, rubbing the surprisingly ubiquitous plantain leaf (not the banana-like fruit, but rather this thin-ribbed green plant) will alleviate any sting, as well as irritation from bug bites and sunburns. But for the real nettle intel, we had chef Mackiddie answer a quick Q&A, and share his personal recipe for an outstanding, herbaceous nettle risotto below. Enjoy the bounty of the season. —Adrienne Matei
Nettle Know-How with Jackson-Triggs Chef Tim Mackiddie
What is the nettle growing season in Vancouver/B.C.?
The nettle season is usually the best from the end of March to mid-May. Ideally you want to harvest from young plants that are no more than 8" in height.
Where can you forage for nettles around Vancouver/B.C.?
Nettles love moist soil. Along creek sides and river beds, fertile fields, and shaded areas. Nettles are generally quite easy to locate. Be sure to harvest your nettles away from road ways or other potential run off contamination.
What are the characteristics of nettles?
The leaves have a wonderful "green taste." I find the flavour profile slightly floral / herbaceous with a combination of cucumber and spinach. Nettles can be described as a "superfood" extremely high in protein, iron, calcium, vitamin C and potassium, among other nutrients!
How do you use nettles?
Be creative! They can be substituted into many recipes calling for the use of leafy greens. Nettles are a great way to put a spring time twist on your favourite spinach or kale dishes.
How do you pick nettles?
Wearing thick rubber gloves, pick or cut the leaves from the stems of young plants. Use only the smaller, upper leaves. Next wash in cold water, allow to sit for 5 minutes then strain. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the leaves for 1 minute, then plunge into ice water to stop the cooking. Drain and dry well, store in an airtight container in your fridge.
What wine would you pair with the B.C. Nettle Risotto?
2013 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Reserve Series Sauvignon Blanc – $13.99
B.C. Nettle Risotto with Wild Leeks and Salt Spring Island Goat Cheese
Serves 6
Ingredients:
6-7 cups vegetable stock
4 tbsp butter
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 shallots, minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups Arborio rice
1⁄2 cup Jackson-Triggs Sauvignon Blanc
1⁄2 cup nettle pesto (recipe below)
1 cup nettle leaves, picked and cleaned
1⁄2 cup leek greens, sliced
1⁄2 cup Salt Spring Island goat cheese
Method:
In saucepan, heat stock until just simmering.
In a separate saucepan heat olive oil over medium heat.
When hot, add in shallots and garlic, cook, stirring occasionally until softened.
This should take 2 to 3 minutes.
Add rice, and stir to coat with oil. Gently toast the rice for 1 minute.
Add wine, stirring constantly until reduced by half.
Add roughly 2 cups of the hot stock or enough so the rice is just covered.
Stir constantly and keep adding more stock to keep the rice covered, as the
preceding increment absorbs. Cook until the rice is “Al dente.” This should take
15 to 20 minutes.
Turn the heat down to low then add the remaining stock if the consistency needs
adjusting, as needed to reach desired consistency of a thin oatmeal.
Next add the butter, nettle pesto and leaves, sliced leeks and cheese.
Continue to stir over the heat for 2 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper.
Remove from the heat, cover and allow to rest for 3 minutes.
B.C. Nettle Pesto
Ingredients:
4 cups nettle leaves
1 small clove garlic, minced
2 tbsp honey
1⁄4 cup olive oil
1⁄4 cup, firm cheese of choice
1 tsp salt
Method:
In a food processor, blend together the nettles, honey, garlic and cheese.
With the machine running slowly add in the oil.
Adjust seasoning with salt to taste if necessary.
– Recipe by Chef Tim Mackiddie, Jackson-Triggs Estate
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