Health & Beauty

Bridgerton Beauty: How the Makeup Team Brings Regency-Era Glamour To Life

October 31, 2024

As much as Bridgerton has captivated fans with its romantic storylines and addictive drama, the show’s undeniable allure lies in its regency glamour. From the elegant gowns to the updos, every detail exudes an over-the-top style that feels nostalgic … yet refreshingly modern. We sat down with Bridgerton’s makeup artist, Erika Ökvist, who spilled the secrets behind creating these iconic looks, blending history with modern flair to bring each character to life in the show’s opulent, reimagined, 19th-century London.

Erika explains that the team’s approach to creating the makeup looks is both inspired by history but also amplified and embellished, in order to tell the characters’ story.

“Bridgerton is obviously very inspired by history, but the styles are then kind of elaborated and sort of married together with things that are fashionable and things that are maybe editorial,” she says. “There are a couple of rules of visual rules that we have, and as long as we follow them, and we are true to the story and true to the character, that’s how we judge how historically correct we need to be. So it’s not like most you know, historically correct stories. This is more to be true to the story and true to the characters.”

Of course, the makeup products that exist now were not available back then and she expresses that if they followed what historically was available during that time it would not coincide with the regency glamour the show takes place in.

 “If I were to use true makeup from this time, you know, like lamp black and other colours that they were using, they’re not going to look good. Nobody’s got any foundation. There’s no mascara or anything like that. They would not look like this. That’s for 100 per cent sure, but the story needs it, and the character needs it, and that’s why we have to be true to that.

With every new season, new characters are introduced, which means there are more people to create signature makeup looks for. Eerika dives into her creative process for crafting makeup looks for new characters entering the Bridgerton world: “At the beginning, especially in season one, we had a lot of new faces because the audience was still getting acquainted with the world. The costume design was quite structured, with each family represented by distinct colours. As we moved into season two, those lines became a bit blurrier, and by season three, we’ve really embraced softer edges because we now understand the characters and their connections better.

“Now that everyone knows who these characters are, we can really focus on making them as attractive as possible while staying true to their individual traits. We have the freedom to choose colours that flatter each character’s unique skin tone. It’s crucial that we’re not limited by the audience’s unfamiliarity; it allows us to evolve with the characters. This thoughtful approach to selecting the right colours for their skin, hair and eye colour plays a huge role in bringing their makeup looks to life, making them more relatable and visually stunning.”

With every production, there’s a team of people who are dedicated to bringing the script’s vision to life. Erika shares the load of work that takes place to bring each character’s unique style and signature makeup look to life, like Penelope Featherington’s glamorous transformation for season three.

“The people who are really, really involved here—number one, John Glaser, the costume designer,” she explains. “When you’re working on something like Bridgerton, you kind of get in your bone marrow what would be right and what won’t. We’ve been head-to-head on every decision. We were both thinking old Hollywood glam and almost had identical research images!”

She points out that the collaboration doesn’t stop there—actors have a say, too, and she and Nicola Coughlan (who plays Penelope) were aligned from day one. “It’s important they feel empowered by the looks we give them,” she says. Of course, the team over at Shondaland also gets input, but “they know this world so well, so we’re just evolving it together each season.” It’s all about staying fresh, Erika laughs, adding, “Who would want to look like they did in season one? Just like going back to London Fashion Week from three years ago—no one wants that!”

So in the spirit of always evolving Erika explains that Penelope’s transformation has been a gradual one, subtly changing with each season. We know that the Featheringtons wanted to be noticed and acknowledged, which is why they were in bold vibrant colours and looked overdressed.

“Season one, for instance, she was dressed by her mother, who doesn’t necessarily have the best sort of dress sense or colour knowledge. … And so on season two, we started to sort of double in changing things, because obviously she now is in love,” says Erika.

In season three Penelope assumes she won’t be able to win Colin Bridgerton’s heart and she no longer wants to live with her mother. And what do so many characters do when their heart is determined to make something happen? They either get a makeover or reinvent themselves, which is exactly what Penelope does.

“She’s got to reinvent herself. She’s looking to land herself a husband, so she needs hair someone would want to run their fingers through, lips that beg to be kissed, eyes ready to flirt,” says Erika. And the first step? A little help from Madame Delacroix. “Madame Delacroix has her finger on the pulse of what’s fashionable. So, being clever, Penelope takes those trends and makes them her own, adapting them into a look she’s comfortable with.”

The inspiration behind her transformation was old Hollywood glamour. “We had a few ideas, but classic old Hollywood glam was so iconic, and it just fit so well with Nicola’s features,” says Erika. The shift in her look goes beyond adding a wig or changing her hair—colour correction plays a huge role. “In seasons one and two, Penelope wore a lot of bright oranges and yellows, which made her red hair pop even more. But in season three, she’s dressed mostly in blues and greens, which balance out the red and soften the whole look. It’s the same hair, but the colours change how we see it.”

What products does Erika rely on to create Penelope’s stunning transformation and the other characters’ glamorous looks? Enter the magic of Pat McGrath!

“Pat McGrath offers an incredible array of skin tone shades, which is essential for working with a diverse cast,” she explains. “Her products act almost like a skin balm, giving the illusion of a beautifully melted finish. Everyone ends up looking flawlessly radiant, which is something she’s well-known for.” With the scale of a production like Bridgerton, having a solid foundation is key. “Using Pat McGrath as our base makes things easier, especially during fittings, because we know we’ll have the right shades for everyone. That’s super important.”

Erika shares her insights on why Pat McGrath’s foundation is a game-changer for television: “I believe it’s all about durability. Everything starts with a good primer, and the real strength comes from the combination of the primer and foundation. Personally, I’m not a fan of heavy powdering. While sometimes it’s necessary, it’s more of a last resort for us. Baking the skin can make it look overly dry on camera, and that’s not the goal!”

Bridgerton’s beauty isn’t just about makeup; it’s a collaborative vision blending costume design, character nuances, and historical romance—a glamorous reimagining that keeps us coming back for more. —Mursal Rahman

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