Even if your Italian’s a little rusty and you don’t know what vineria and salumeria mean, get yourself to Ovest Cucina e Vineria regardless. You won’t regret it.
In the stretch of King Street just west of Bathurst, where there’s slim pickings for good eats, this cantina-inspired resto has planted itself in a sublevel space filled with rustic wood finishes, industrial-chic lighting and plenty of eye candy in the form of wine bottles and barrels. Under the direction of executive chef Luca Straquadanio (who hails from Sicily), the menu includes a healthy number of seafood dishes, such as crisp-skinned filet of black cod with lentils (chef made a slight variation for us and included some n’duja as well—a spicy touch we devoured happily). When you’re craving a pasta course, the osso buco-stuffed agnolotti are dreamy pillows swimming in a butter sauce and dressed prettily with fresh truffles.
Surely eating here counts as brushing up on one’s Italian, sì? —Karen Kwan
Ovest Cucina e Vineria, 788 King St. W., Toronto, 416-214-6161, www.ovest-to.com
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