With recent tariff threats shaking up the fashion industry, buying Canadian has never been more important. Free Label, the beloved ethical clothing brand founded by Jess Stenberg, has long championed sustainable, locally-made fashion—prioritizing fair wages, eco-friendly fabrics, and timeless, versatile designs. In this Q&A, Jess shares her thoughts on the importance of supporting Canadian-made goods, how Free Label is navigating industry shifts, and why conscious consumerism is the future of fashion. —Noa Nichol
Your Instagram post resonated with so many people. What kind of response did you receive, and were you surprised by the level of engagement?
The posts I shared have garnered over 350k views and nearly 1000 shares. I also received hundreds of DMs of support and kind words. I was surprised that so many folks shared it, but at the same time I think a lot of people are wondering the same things right now – will this trade war elevate or destroy small business?
You mentioned that 35% of your sales come from the U.S. How significant is that for Free Label, and what would losing that market mean for your business?
It’s actually closer to 40% upon further reflection – and our fastest growing segment. This is huge for us. If we completely lose this market, we won’t be able to survive. The last couple years have been incredibly turbulent for small businesses already. Between supply chain issues during the pandemic, the rising cost of materials and rent, a poor economic outlook causing consumers to tighten their wallets, and constant little challenges to navigate such as the Canada Post strike – it’s been pivot after pivot. To potentially face a huge downturn in a primary market would be near-impossible to come back from.
Free Label has always championed Canadian manufacturing. What are some of the biggest challenges in keeping production local, and how can consumers better understand the value of Canadian-made fashion?
Canadian made is so important – especially when it comes to our clothes and products. How else can we ensure that our products are being made fairly and ethically? We visit our production partners often to ensure they are being treated fairly, are working in safe conditions, and it allows us to problem-solve any quality or production issues that may arise that brands that manufacture overseas cannot remedy in time. This results in a much better quality product. While I beleive its the best way to produce, there are a lot of challenges with making our garments locally. In the 1990s about 70% of the clothing and textiles consumed in Canada were also made here (source), whereas now it’s closer to 5% (source). This means over the last few decades we’ve lost a lot of technology and talent in the garment industry. Sewers and cutters are an aging population because younger generations aren’t training in the field. We have fallen behind in technology compared to other countries so production capabilities are very limited. But the biggest hurdle I think its consumer perception of the value of goods. As a society weve become very jaded as to the value of the goods we purchase and the value of the work that goes into producing goods. We expect a t-shirt to cost $10 even though we would not ourselves work in the system that perpetuates that price. I think there is a lot of education required to help consumers understand the value of products, and that when you buy something “cheap” it is coming at a cost to someone else (the person making it).
You expressed hope that this situation could reset consumer culture toward buying less and supporting local. What would that shift look like in practice, and do you think mainstream consumers are ready for it?
I think we have to make this shift. Most of us know we consume too much and its wreaking havoc on our earth. But I’m not sure that mainstream consumers are ready to make that shift – we’ve gotten used to the convenience of quantity over quality. I think we need laws and regulations to help us get out of our comfort zone and make the shift. One misconception that I think folks have is that they can continue to consume at the same rate but buying local. Firstly, that doesn’t solve our culture’s problem of overconsumption, but secondly, it’s too expensive. We need to buy LESS but better. The great thing is that if we buy locally made and higher quality, we actually need less; those items last longer and they are often more timeless. In the long run, I spend less now that I shop primarily Canadian made than when I shopped fast fashion. And I’m much happier with my closet!
You referenced the strong push for supporting local businesses during the pandemic. Why do you think that momentum faded, and how can brands and consumers reignite it?
I think part of why supporting local took off so much during the pandemic is because people were seeking connection, and that was a form of connection too. Since then, I think the culture of how we consume information, news, content, etc has made staying connected overwhelming. We are seeking quick entertainment over more long lasting interactions. In all honesty, I’m not sure how to reignite it! I think as a population, we are overstimulated. Perhaps limiting social media and the noise around us could help – spending more time outside in nature, with our local communities, spending less time on our phones could help us reset so that we have the energy to care again.
You touched on the fact that people like the idea of buying Canadian, but often struggle with the price point. How do you navigate that challenge in your business, and what do you say to those hesitant about paying more for locally made goods?
Price is always going to be a challenge for Canadian made businesses. But the fact is we can never compete on price. I have to remind myself this constantly; we cannot compete on price with Old Navy, Shein, and these other fast fashion giants. It’s simply not possible and to be honest, I never would want to! It would mean someone else is paying for my consumer thrill with their quality of life and that’s not a trade I’m willing to make. Since we cannot compete on price, we have to compete on everything else: We have to have the best fit. We have to use the best fabric. We have to offer the best customer service. We have to make the best quality. And so that’s what we focus on. Because long term, our garments are going to do laps around those fast fashion pieces. And if you buy one pair of our pants for 5X the price, but it lasts 10X longer, you’re coming out with a better deal.
Beyond Free Label, what industries do you think will be hardest hit by Trump’s proposed tariffs? How might these changes impact the broader Canadian economy?
I fear that the tariffs will affect all industries. From lumber, to oil, to ecommerce, to produce. But I also do think there is opportunity here. We relied on the US as our trading partner for so long, but there are so many other countries that would love to trade with us, and I think if we can shift the consumer culture, there is so much opportunity at home in the Canadian market. The challenge is that it will take time to build these markets.
Free Label has always advocated for slow fashion. Do you think these trade policies could actually push people toward a more sustainable, mindful approach to shopping?
That’s my hope! Whether or not the tariffs go through, I think the threat has made an impact and Canadians will remember that we need to support each other first and foremost. That being said, I do think there’s a relatively new phenomenon we need to be weary of. Typically in times of economic hardship people cut back on spending and do with less. But now that we have access to incredibly cheap goods from other countries, we no longer accept doing with less. In fact, buying cheap (and on top of that utilizing programs like buy now pay later) empower us to keep purchasing business as usual. It’s so appealing because it makes us feel like we are in control and are wealthier than we are, but it only serves to perpetuate that poverty.
If U.S. sales decline, do you have a plan for pivoting Free Label’s strategy? Are there new markets or opportunities you’re considering?
We will definitely focus on Canada – we’re a small enough company that there is still so much opportunity within our own market that we haven’t even begun to scratch the surface. But I would also love to expand internationally. The UK is difficult because there are a lot of trade barriers, but we have some budding growth in Japan, Australia and Germany so I’d love to see where that goes.
What message do you want to send to Canadian consumers right now? How can they actively support brands like Free Label and ensure small businesses survive these challenges?
I really want to say that we can get through this together. I don’t want customers to feel like the weight of all these small businesses is on their shoulders and they must overextend themselves to buy buy buy. There are SO many ways to support Canadian brands that don’t cost a cent. Share a post from a business you love. Forward an email to a friend. Drop a link in a group chat. And of course, the next time you need to make a purchase, consider making it with a small Canadian business. Because I’m telling you – we really DO do a happy dance.
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