Chef Nutcha Phanthoupheng has long been celebrated for elevating Royal Thai cuisine in Canada, but now she’s receiving a truly regal honor—the King Charles III Coronation Medal. As the award-winning executive chef and owner of Baan Lao Fine Thai Cuisine, Phanthoupheng has redefined fine dining with her dedication to authenticity, sustainability, and culinary excellence.
In this exclusive Q&A, she reflects on receiving this prestigious recognition, her journey from healthcare to haute cuisine, and how she’s shaping the future of Thai gastronomy in Canada. —Noa Nichol
Congratulations on receiving the King Charles III Coronation Medal! How did you feel when you first learned that you would be receiving this prestigious honour?
I was very happy and surprised.
This medal recognizes individuals who have made significant contributions to Canada and their communities. What does this recognition mean to you personally and professionally?
In Thai culture, the royal family is highly revered. To receive recognition by the Canadian representative for the King of the United Kingdom is a very special honour for a chef. Personally, I was so happy to become a Canadian citizen. It makes me happy to give back to the country that welcomed me so warmly.
You transitioned from a career in nursing and cancer research to becoming an award-winning chef. How has your background in healthcare influenced your approach to cooking and hospitality?
My background as a nurse was important. I saw a lot of people who were sick and dying. It was discouraging. You have to do things to prevent disease and eating healthy food is one of the best steps. I learned a lot about that when I worked as a cancer researcher at the Chulabhorn Hospital in Bangkok. But also, my family background was a big influence. I was raised in the countryside, on my family’s rice farm in Isan, in northeast Thailand. We raised our own animals and grew all our own vegetables. Everything, we cooked from scratch. In my heart, I know that healthy food is good food. All that experience, combined, influenced my approach to cooking. At Baan Lao, everything is fresh, nothing is frozen. We use only organic vegetables and fruits, good fish and grass-fed meat. In the kitchen, we don’t have a microwave or a walk-in freezer. We cook everything from scratch. High nutrition for everyone.
Baan Lao Fine Thai Cuisine has earned national and international accolades, including being named Best Restaurant in Canada 2024 by the World Culinary Awards. What do you think sets Baan Lao apart from other fine dining experiences?
We’re a Thai restaurant that follows the traditions of Royal Thai cuisine. This is new to Canada. When I came here, the Thai restaurants I visited were all family-style. There was no presentation or individual plating. But Thai food can be very beautiful. I wanted to show people that Thai food can be upscale—on the same level as Canadian food. So, I went back and trained with the chefs who served the Thai royal family and now have their own Michelin-star restaurants.
In Royal Thai cuisine, there are many rules—the food has to be very healthy and high quality, everything is handmade from scratch. The servings are all individually plated. The portions are small and easy to eat—no bones, no pits. But also, the presentation has to be very beautiful, very clean, very modern. We use a lot of flowers for garnish and natural food colourings. We spend hours carving fruits and vegetables into beautiful shapes. In Royal Thai cuisine, you eat with your eyes. This Thai tradition, the artistry, is what sets us apart.
Your restaurant is deeply rooted in authenticity, sustainability, and innovation. Can you share some of the ways Baan Lao incorporates these values into its dining experience?
Our Afternoon Tea Thai Experience is a good example of how we are authentic and also innovative. In Thailand, they have British tea in the big hotels. But they use British teas and British foods. In our restaurant, we use teas from around the world, including Thailand. We have a tea sommelier who pairs the teas so they enhance the flavours of every bite. There are three courses with 12 small, beautiful dishes—Thai canapes. They are traditional recipes, but I give them my own twist. The salad roll, for example, is a traditional salad roll. But I take the rice paper and I dip it in butterfly pea flower tea to give it a purple colour. It’s not traditional to do that.
Royal Thai cuisine is steeped in tradition and artistry. What are some of the most unique or intricate techniques you use at Baan Lao to preserve this culinary heritage?
We make luuk chup, a Thai dessert molded into the shapes of fruits and vegetables. It’s like marzipan, but made with mung bean paste. It takes many hours. We soak the yellow mung beans overnight to soften. Then we steam them for 30 minutes and blend it with coconut milk and palm sugar. After, we have to stir until it thickens, on low heat. For one-and-a-half hours. You cannot stop. You have to stir by hand. It’s hard to find the right balance. If it’s undercooked, you cannot shape it. If it’s overcooked, it’s too hard. When you mold it, you have to work very quickly, with toothpicks. Then you dip it in agar, then paint it with natural food colouring, then let it dry. You have to colour it four times so it’s hard on the outside, but soft on the inside. Usually, no one has the patience to do something like this. Even in Thailand, the restaurants buy their luuk chup from a family that does this one job only.
Beyond the restaurant, you are actively involved in mentorship and community service. Why is it important for you to give back, and how do you hope to inspire the next generation of chefs?
I am a Buddhist. That is my happiness. When I give, I get back. I enjoy teaching because I don’t want to keep all my lessons to myself. Vancouver Community College has invited me to be a guest teacher. The students don’t have the opportunity like me to go to Thailand to study. I want to share with them and show them that Thai food can be beautiful. If it opens their minds and they see what is possible, the happiness I get from that—you cannot buy it anywhere.
You have played a significant role in promoting Thai cuisine in Canada. How do you see the future of Thai gastronomy evolving in the Canadian food scene?
The quality is improving. That’s good. Somebody asked me—it was a chef, but I cannot remember his name—he asked me how I would feel if people wanted to copy my food. I said they are welcome to copy because the competition will help me improve. If there is no competition, the quality will stay the same.
You’ve mentioned that ‘good food is the best medicine.’ How do you incorporate health-conscious elements into your fine dining menu without compromising on flavour and tradition?
Natural food tastes better. There is no compromise. We get our beef from Sumas Mountain Farm in Abbotsford. It has many certifications—SPCA, organic, USDA, Canadian. The cows are grass-fed. The farm has its own abattoir. They don’t use hormones. When you smell the meat, you smell nature. When you taste the meat, you taste the grass. It’s healthier for you to eat. It is also more flavourful.
Looking ahead, what are your next goals for Baan Lao and your culinary journey? Is there a dream project or initiative you’d love to pursue?
We are opening two restaurants on Granville Island this year. One is a Thai bakery and café. The other is a more casual Isan restaurant. I trained to do Royal Thai cuisine, but now I want to do the flavours I grew up with up. My dream project is to make my own sauces to sell. Someday, I would like to have my own farm.
Last but not least, your personal favourite Thai dish to make and eat?!
Laab. It’s a Thai meat salad. It’s easy. We eat it at home a lot, served with steamed vegetables from our garden and nam jim dipping sauce. At Baan Lao, on our new menu, I’m doing an upscale version with duck. You must come and try it.
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