New Eats: AnnaLena

First off: AnnaLena is a cool space.

The décor’s really striking in this Kits restaurant, with elegantly integrated playfulness in the form of Tetrus-inspired bar shelves, Lego-lamps and MediCom Bearbrick figurines. Lights and seating are both in tangly liquorice bootstrap style, and a retractable front window means warm sea breezes all summer long (detail orientation permeates the spot and staff are warmly attentive; this is a place to feel comfortable and cared for). Dishes are meant to share; we split spinach-asiago ravioli (breadcrumb-crisped pasta, generous leafy filling), tuna confit and highly recommendable mussels with fennel and torn bread. All options offer a contemporary perspective on a classic … including dessert, which for us meant a chocolate custard “crème brûlée” topped with crunchy seafoam candy and salted caramel gelato.

A fantastic departure from the norm. —Adrienne Matei

AnnaLena, 1809 W First Ave., Vancouver, 778-379-4052, http://www.annalena.ca/