The Fat Badger sees the team behind Denman’s Espana enriching the West End once more.
The British gastropub, at the corner of Alberni and Cardero, is cosy and mostly hunter-green, with a crackling fireplace, a long communal table and a wee patio. Snacks are true English classics: a scotch egg resting in a puddle of HP sauce and chips with chicken tikka masala, paneer and cheese curds that are better than poutine (we’ll be back to sample the Badger’s Sunday-night supper of roast and yorkshire pudding). Dessert is a collection of tricky-to-find classics: sticky toffee pudding in a piping pool of butterscotch and topped with vanilla ice cream, and Eton mess served in a generous portion (but we could have eaten it out of a tub).
Service is jovial and lax—a pub shouldn’t take itself too seriously and The Fat Badger doesn’t. Upon delivering a course, our waitress cheerfully exclaimed, "All I do is feed you guys!" It’s not often you hear a comment both completely accurate and somehow unusual. But that seems like this Brit pub’s vibe: a classic concept underrepresented in the city and executed with equal parts poise and a true-to-character relaxed affability.
It’s a great little spot to go have someone feed you. —Adrienne Matei
The Fat Badger, 1616 Alberni St., Vancouver
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