The hottest seat in town right now is surely at Au Comptoir, a new French café open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in-between (a glass of wine from the Loire and a tin plate of Reed Island oysters, perhaps?).
Opened by a pair of young Frenchmen (Maxime and Julien), who met in hospitality school in Paris, it’s the service and authenticity that sets this charming place apart, from classic bistro sides like Pommes Dauphines, to the ubiquitously Parisian “Saumon unilateral,” and even Oranginas for the kids. The house ground beef burger with onion jam and raclette on brioche-style bun was among the best we’ve ever had, and our pint-sized dining companion devoured her duck confit before we could steal a bite. Wrap that all into a package with a custom-made tin bar from France, distressed mosaic floors, Kronenbourg sold by the “demi” and 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. hours, you know you’ve got to go.
But get there with time to spare—in a bid for democracy there are no reservations. —Sarah Bancroft
Au Comptoir, 2278 W Fourth Ave., Vancouver, 604-569-2278, www.aucomptoir.ca
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