New Eats: The Greek by Anatoli

Before visiting Yaletown’s The Greek by Anatoli, we couldn’t recall the last time we had gone out for Greek food.

The avoidance wasn’t conscious; it’s just that we didn’t know of a really remarkable spot. Now that’s changed. Run by (charming) brothers Alexi and Iani Makris, The Greek is the first expansion of Lonsdale’s Anatoli Souvlaki, operated by the Makris’ parents since 1984. Refined, modernized yet authentic Greek cuisine is on the menu, with an emphasis on exquisitely plated Mezze bites to share. Rabbit kalamakia comes in "popsicle" form, i.e., three thick coins of rabbit loin and lamb sausage looped in a strip of double-smoked bacon that’s meaty without being heavy. The gemista—tomatoes stuffed with vegetables and rice—are a filling vegan meal, while the classic Greek salad comes with ribboned cucumbers and imported Grecian sheep milk feta (plus hot, soft pita). Our favourite was the octopothi: perfectly textured Pacific octopus with a nice char served over roasted potatoes in a lemon olive oil dressing, beautifully plated with capers and fresh dill (it may be one of the best octopus dishes we’ve had, and we’re Croatian). Add thoughtful cocktails (the Papou—a white Negroni rimmed in Campari dust—is nicely balanced, and the Karpouzi, which tastes sort of like a grown-up sour-watermelon Jolly Rancher, should be sipped on the sunny patio).

Is it too soon to go back? —Adrienne Matei

The Greek by Antoli, 1043 Mainland St., Vancouver, 604-979-0700