It’s officially fashion month. New York City fashion week wrapped on Wednesday, where American designers debuted their Spring 2025 collections. Here are a few highlights from the first week and notable trends emerging for next Spring. These designs are favouring structure, but in a more feminine and unassuming way than we have seen recently. In contrast to the exaggerated shoulders of oversized blazers, there is a lot more going on with the hips, from drop waist, to bubble skirts, to hip pads that evoke the image of historic panniers and cage dresses.
Phillip Lim’s Spring 2025 collection calls back to the era of early fashion bloggers and the twee aesthetic. His collection brimmed with feminine silhouettes and textiles including a new take on peplum tops, lace details and sheer fabrics.
Cher Horowitz’s favourite designer has proved that the bubble skirt trend isn’t going anywhere, but it is taking on a new form. Alaïa showed several voluminous maxi skirts reminiscent of a down comforter. However, next Spring’s take we’re dropping the waist. The Alaïa skirts are fitted through the hips with a pillowy drop waist silhouette, seen in several Spring 2025 collections including Prabal Gurung.
Kate Barton showed several dresses with exaggerated hips, reminiscent of panniers from Rococo dresses. In particular, a latex mini in what can only be described as diet-brat green, the colour of summer 2024.
LoveShackFancy hosted a 1950’s salon-style show in their whimsical New York City office, which looked like an absolute dream. Models swanned around the room with decorative teacups and ribbon-adorned champagne glasses in hand. Founder Rachel Hessel Cohen vlogged the week leading up to the show on TikTok for an incredible behind the scenes look at what goes into the production of a fashion show, a must watch for any aspiring young designers and fashion production students. The collection consisted of 36 pieces which were undeniably coquette and girlhood core, aesthetics which have become synonymous with the brand. —Sheila O’Neill
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