Bhutan: A Journey Through Magic, Mountains & Mindfulness

As we prepared to land in Paro, the Drukair plane dipped past remote villages high up in the Himalayas, its wings seemingly brushing mountaintops as we continued our epic descent. I had just perused the in-flight magazine, which dutifully noted that there are just 16 Drukair pilots qualified for this route. But this picture-perfect arrival made my heart soar, not race. Magic is a term liberally doled out by those trying to capture the essence of the Land of the Thunder Dragon. And this moment made me understand why. —Karolyne Ellacott

Those Mountain Sleeps

Maybe Bhutan isn’t at the top of most travellers’ bucket lists—or even easy to pinpoint on your mental world map—but this tiny Himalayan kingdom sure ought to be. Due to its distant location and tourism rules ‘n’ regs, most tourists visit for around a week. It’s known as being a pricey locale to visit but, as luck would have it, the country’s currently having a big entry sale. While pre-pandemic visitors would pay a daily Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of $250 USD—money which helps keep the world’s only carbon neutral country in tip top shape—it’s dropped to $100 USD until the end of August 2027. If that isn’t incentive, I don’t know what is. {Note: There are some exceptions to this rule, as regional tourists pay a lesser fee.}

When it comes to hotels, there are plenty of properties to write home about. Arrive at Zhiwaling Heritage on a misty day, breathing in that oh-so-fresh mountain air, and you’ll be spilling tons of ink over the fact that the entire hotel features an intricate hand carved façade. My room boasted a balcony overlooking a burbling creek with mountains in the distance; it was hard to stop myself from endlessly snapping the same view. Beds with ũber fluffy comforters add to the allure, as does a cozy tea room elsewhere on the property, where staff teach you how to make Bhutan’s famed suja (aka butter tea). 

Meanwhile, another short drive from the airport, Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary actually gives guests stamps printed with their own likeness before they leave, taking the “Wish You Were Here” postcard to the next level. Fashioned after a dzong (fortress), this tranquil boutique hotel is all about wellness and, tucked up in the hills above Paro, its geographical positioning encourages its guests to unwind and then some. Enjoy spectacular views across the valley before you indulge in your daily spa treatment—not to mention four-course lunches and six-course dinners (all included with your room). Fittingly, there are no children allowed.

Culture Keener

When you’re not getting some much-needed R&R at your hotel, there is history to soak up and culture to sip on at every turn. To enter the country, tourists must partner with a local tour guide; I went with MyBhutan, a luxury-first company founded by American Matthew DeSantis who fell for the country the moment he set foot in it. “I have a deep affection and respect for the people and culture of Bhutan,” Matthew says. “There is a sense of peace that permeates every aspect of life here—a harmonic interconnectedness with all beings, both sentient and non-sentient. Our wise leadership has shaped a society rooted in compassion and integrity.”

My every need was taken care of from my airport pickup onward—whether in the form of on-the-go WiFi, always-full reusable water bottles, or retractable hiking sticks. (You never know when you’re off on a quick afternoon trek in Bhutan.) Our guide, Sonam, and driver, Dorji, were vats of information, and were always willing to tweak the day’s itinerary to any whims. Plus, their fun-loving personalities made the tour that much better.

No matter if you’re keen to visit the Textile Museum to learn about trad handwoven fabrics from across the land, or are set on viewing Takins—the national animal—at a sanctuary, or visit the picturesque Punakha Dzong, your itinerary will be packed. If you’re looking for nightlife, tourists and locals alike paint the town red at Mojo Park, in Thimphu. Movie buffs will recognize its role in Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom.

Chillies & Beyond

When it comes to Bhutanese cuisine, chances are you’re not too familiar. The Coles Notes? Bhutanese are utterly smitten with ema datshi—aka chilli cheese—which is the country’s signature dish. When dining at a traditional spot, such as Thimphu’s Babesa Village Restaurant, the ratio will be in favour of the chillies. However, in restaurants targeting a foreign crowd, the cheese sauce tends to dominate, appeasing those of us with weaker tongues. (Look out for chillies drying on a parade of roofs wherever you go—Bhutanese are serious about ‘em.) Seek cheesy ema datshi at Le Méridien Paro, a hotel which boasts more glorious views, or in the city at Le Méridien Thimphu. If chillies aren’t your thing, there are endless variations of the cheese-plus-veg equation. Zhiwaling Heritage does a spectacular potato version that is reminiscent of scalloped potatoes. The culinary team trotted out a series of traditional dishes to dive into, including red rice, jasha maroo (spicy chicken stew), and buckwheat noodles. I also fell for buckwheat momos (aka dumplings) at Le Méridien Paro along with plenty of excellent Indian food. You can happily scratch the itch of every north Indian dish—dal makhani, aloo gobi, saag paneer—at many fine hotel restaurants. If you’re looking for cheap ‘n’ cheerful, there are plenty of bites to mow down on in both Paro, Thimphu, and the surrounding region. Be sure to seek out more tasty momos and get them in soup for a meal that feels like a hug.

The Trek You Didn’t Know You Needed

“Living here has guided me with a greater understanding of what it truly means to live a fulfilling life,” notes MyBhutan’s Matthew. “We welcome our guests to follow their own journeys of reflection and discovery.” Your trip will likely culminate in a trek up to the famed Tiger’s Nest; it’s what most visitors to this faraway land have on their bucket list. Every possible level of hiker is bound to be on the trail and locals can recall when there wasn’t a guardrail. Thankfully, one was sturdily in place during my climb, and the five-hour journey there and back was more than worth it. (My guide noted he’d probably done the hike over 500 times—but isn’t actually counting!) Once it slowly appears beyond the morning mist, this precariously placed monastery is truly a sight to behold. It conjures up images from childhood books spiked with magic and dragons. It’s visual poetry, magic, mysticism—whatever verbiage embodies the experience that resonates with you. After you’ve come down from the high, plunk yourself into a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath. Depending on your hotel, this can be experienced outdoors or indoors; large stones are heated to piping hot temperatures and then used to heat bathwater to the ideal temps. It’s a blissful experience and the perfect way to reflect back on your trip—and on your life ahead.