Vancouver isn’t exactly short on restaurants claiming “Mediterranean inspiration,” but Hydra Estiatorio doesn’t lean on Santorini-blue walls or bouzouki clichés to get the point across.
Tucked into the EXchange Hotel, Hydra plays it sleek and modern, like someone redesigned a Greek island villa after a long weekend in Milan. A spiral staircase ascends the main dining room, which feels both airy and intimate. It’s the kind of space that makes you want to order sparkling wine, even if you came in thinking red.
I was there on a Saturday night with my wife, Anisha. We’d managed to get a prime-time reservation and were glad we made the effort. The atmosphere was lively without being loud, and our server was one of those rare hospitality unicorns who’s warm, intuitive, and doesn’t recite the specials like they’re being held hostage.
Hydra’s menu skews upscale Greek with a West Coast sensibility. Think quality ingredients, minimal fuss, and enough lemon and olive oil to keep cardiologists conflicted. We started with the grilled octopus, which hit that ideal texture zone between charred and tender. Dressed with lemon, oregano, capers, and good olive oil, it tasted clean and bright—like something you’d eat seaside, only without the sand.
The saganaki arrived flambéed tableside—flashy, but not over the top. The kefalograviera cheese crisped up perfectly, with a good squeeze of lemon to cut through the richness.
Then came the tomato salad, built around a solid slab of feta. Straightforward and well done. The tomatoes actually tasted like tomatoes, which is more than I can say for most of what I bring home from the grocery store.
For mains, Anisha chose the Pacific Chinook Salmon, pan-roasted and served with a delicate dill-lemon sauce. The salmon was flaky, rich, and beautifully cooked—one of those dishes where the fish speaks for itself, and the kitchen knows better than to overcomplicate things.
I had the Organic Chicken Souvlaki, which comes skewered, grilled, and seasoned with olive oil, garlic, and herbs. It’s not flashy, but it’s executed with the kind of precision that makes you realize how often other places mess up chicken. It also came with a side of grilled peppers and the house lemon potatoes, which we had to negotiate to share actively.
Dessert involved a split decision. The bougatsa—phyllo pastry smashed tableside and then hit with caramel and chocolate—was theatrical and indulgent. But I preferred the lemon custard meringue: tangy, airy, and not remotely guilt-inducing. This felt like a win after a meal that erred on the generous side.
The wine list is stacked with Greek labels alongside familiar French and Italian picks. We landed on a crisp rosé that played well with both seafood and poultry, and wasn’t priced to punish. Bonus points to the sommelier for skipping the hard sell and just making smart, friendly suggestions.
Since Nu closed, there hasn’t been much in Vancouver for people who want Greek food without paper napkins or a looping Zorba soundtrack. Hydra fills that gap with confidence. It’s not trying to be your neighbourhood taverna—it’s going for something more refined, and mostly pulls it off.
The service is dialed in, the space feels special without being stiff, and the food walks that nice line between polished and honest. Yes, it’s a splurge. But Hydra makes the occasion feel like it’s worth it. —Mark Sissons
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