72 Hours In Guatemala: Exploring Antigua & Lake Atitlán

Guatemala has emerged as an underrated hotspot in recent years, particularly due to its mixture of colonial architecture, stunning scenery and incredible cuisine. While the country is a go-to spot for nature enthusiasts and adventurers, Antigua and Lake Atitlán have also become destinations for luxury getaways with wellness programs and fine dining immersed in Central American culture. Here’s how we would spend 72 hours in Guatemala. —Cassie Gill

Antigua

Where To Stay

Villa Bokeh, a Relais & Chateâux property, is the definition of boutique luxury, and the ideal spot to spend your first two nights. A former seven-bedroom hacienda set on six acres of nature, this gorgeous building has been converted into 15 unique suites and villas just 10 minutes from the center of Antigua. Guatemalan colonial influence blends with modern neutrals for a relaxed elevated vibe, making this the perfect hotel to unwind, reset and recharge. Wandering the garden and lagoon – a popular backdrop for destination weddings – is a dreamy way to spend an afternoon before a dip in the pool or jacuzzi. 

The upstairs art galleries are worth a pre-dinner gander, too. Dining at this hotel didn’t disappoint with an elegantly displayed morning breakfast buffet (don’t miss the made-to-order pancakes), while lunch and dinner offered a contemporary twist on Guatemalan cuisine: the Ceviche guatemalteco de camarón – or Guatemalan shrimp ceviche – was a highlight. 

Bedrooms feel like spacious apartments with plenty of space, with some featuring outdoor tubs and a customizable bath menu of services. The complimentary evening and morning rituals were also memorable, with amenities like heated eye masks, a pillow menu, and wellness beverages to both wind down and kick start your day. 

Where To Explore 

Spend your day exploring beautiful Antigua, a UNESCO world heritage site surrounded by volcanoes. Spanish colonial buildings make up most of the impeccably maintained and colourful streets, with iconic stops like the yellow La Merced church by architect Juan de Dios Estrada, the Santa Catalina arch, and ruins of the San Francisco church. 

Where To Shop

Casa Del Jade is an iconic jewelry store; it’s both a boutique and gallery that’s worth stopping in for. Casa Del Jade is a family-owned business that started over 40 years ago and has become synonymous with unique pieces featuring Guatemalan jade. There are both classic and contemporary styles from designer Silvia Leech, including rings, earrings, necklaces and more. 

Where To Caffeinate 

There are no actual fat cats here, but cute and cozy Fat Cat Coffee House is considered the best specialty coffee spot in town. Founder Gerson Otsoy grew up immersed in the coffee world, as his mother worked as a coffee bean picker in the country – which some consider to be home of the best beans in the world. Options are endless here when it comes to preparation methods, but you can’t go wrong with a Cafe Con Leche or the iced mocha with real local chocolate.  

Where To Eat 

For lunch, relaxing courtyard restaurant Santo Spirito is set in a colonial house and serves up delicious Italian food from chef Mattia Bellucci. Santa Spirito boasts an excellent wine list and ever-evolving menu, but, is best known for their fish entrees and pastas. The spaghetti, tortellini and ravioli are all handmade in-house, along with the delectable artisanal bread. 

Helados de Doña Gavi: this adorable ice cream shop is tiny but mighty on offerings with 30 rotating options. Helados de Doña Gavi makes all of their flavours in house with natural ingredients, and offers an unconventional mix of options like sweet potato, cardamom and Guatemalan fruits like zapote and mamey. The classics – like vanilla and mint – are all available, too, making this an easy stop for anyone who wants a cool treat. The shop also carries a selection of soaps, lotions and other goodies. 

Where To Drink

ULEW Cocktail Bar, a mysterious speakeasy – a hidden gem in Antigua – is found through a phone booth. Once you’ve made your way in, there’s no menus to be found: guests tell the bartender what they like and they’ll come up with a concoction based on however vague or detailed you might be. You may not know exactly what you’re going to be drinking, but the guessing component keeps this place fun and vibrant. Cocktails here are definitely made for the ‘gram, so have your camera ready – and be aware that there are no reservations. 

Lake Atitlán

Where To Stay

Way up in the Guatemalan highlands, you won’t get a more breathtaking view of Lake Atitlán than Casa Palopó. Check out of Villa Bokeh and head two hours east to sister Relais & Châteaux property Casa Palopó (or, for those inclined, book a 20-minute helicopter ride). This bright and colourful property was also a former private residence turned into an eclectic boutique hotel – it somehow feels like you’re staying at a cool rich aunt’s house, with a homey, relaxed energy that offers style in spades. The hotel is adorned with Guatemalan colours, art, and unique furnishings while the completely renovated rooms take on a more modern aesthetic. The main living area of the hotel, with glass doors opening to the main restaurant terrace and the view, is a gem. Visiting the infinity pool at the private villa, which includes a hot tub, is a must if availability permits – but the solar-powered main pool is also a delight. Dining options include Casa Palopó 6.8 and the waterfront Kinnik: the latter is a lunchtime essential with front row lake views and delicious open fire cooking. 

Where To Explore

Santa Catarina Palopó is a colourful Mayan community just a short ride from the hotel. The small town was revived by the ‘Pintando El Cambio’ project, which translates to ‘Painting for Change’ – resulting in plenty of colourful art on the homes, buildings and walls of Santa Catarina Palopó. Wander through the nooks and crannies of this amazing place while also stopping in local shops and businesses. 

Take the hotel funicular down to the lake before boarding a boat to ride over to San Juan la Laguna; this charming Indigenous town which is full of artisanal shops, cafes, and plenty of history. While Spanish is mostly understood here, the primary language is Kaqchikel, a Mayan dialect dating back to 300 AD. Make your way through the colourful, car-free streets and narrow allows to explore. Be sure to stop at Iglesia Católica, famous for its beautiful stained glass windows. There are also plenty of ceramic and textile cooperatives to pick up a souvenir. 

Where To Shop

Xocolatl: this globally renowned chocolate spot in San Antonio Palopó is deeply rooted in Guatemalan tradition and history, one of the few countries that produce cocoa beans (and very good ones, at that). Xocolatl means chocolate in ancient Mayan, and this boutique serves it up in droves: find the milk, white and dark variations, along with nut and fruit infusinons, truffles and more. Everything was heavenly, so it’s all about personal preference here. 

Textile making is the heart of many Mayan villages, including in San Antonio Palopó. Find everything from accessories like scarves, clothing and housewares like placemats, napkins and more, all in intricate designs at Artesania Maya. Textiles are made by women and girls who provide for their families, with the weaving process done by hand using traditional techniques that have been passed down for generations. The signature design to this region is a rich blue huipiles, which is commonly worn by women of the town in the form of a tunic – but there are plenty of colour combos to suit your own style.