Few facets of fragrance can be as frustrating as a disappearing scent; you spritz on your favourite fragrance in the morning, only to discover it has seemingly disappeared without a trace by the middle of the day. So, what makes a perfume last? According to Quentin Bisch, a perfumer for the Swiss multinational manufacturer Givaudan, it’s all about the base.
“Longevity is closely linked to the concentration of perfume oils in the formula,” Bisch explains. “The higher the concentration of perfume oil content, the deeper and more lasting the scent will last.”
Lighter formulas such as an eau de toilette presents a softer presence that lasts for a few hours, the professional fragrance creator says. An eau de parfum, on the other hand, offers more depth and endurance on skin: “Intense versions and elixirs with the highest concentrations can reveal their scent for many hours, sometimes up to 24 hours. Perfume extrait holds the highest concentration of fragrance oils. This higher concentration delivers greater intensity, longevity and a certain audacity for the wearer, making it a bold and memorable olfactory statement.”
A perfume is made up of three layers of notes: the top, heart (or middle) and the base. And, when it comes to finding a fragrance that has staying power, Canadian fragrance brand founder Barb Stegemann says it’s important to pay attention to the foundational notes of the scent first: “The base notes are the ones that truly endure. Vanilla, amber, oud, musk and woods have larger molecular structures that cling to the skin longer. That’s why you’ll find them in so many of our perfumes.”
The homegrown fragrance collection from The 7 Virtues, available at Sephora stores across Canada, keeps longevity top of mind during the creation phase. “We use 22 per cent fragrance oils, nearly double the industry average,” Stegemann says. “We also use the highest-quality ingredients that meet Clean at Sephora standards, which means our perfumes aren’t just long-lasting, they’re also safe and sustainable.”
Noting testing was carried out on The 7 Virtues scents by a third-party lab, she says the brand’s fragrances will last up to a full 24 hours on skin thanks to the quality of ingredients used, such as sustainably harvested vanilla and natural vegan musks, which she says “help anchor and extend the scent.”
One thing to keep in mind when testing new fragrance options—and you really should try before you buy—is that fresh and airy notes such as citrus or green elements fade more quickly, according to Bisch. “This difference comes from the way each ingredient interacts with the skin and the air: heavier, rounder scents tend to settle and gently release over time, accompanying the wearer for hours after application,” he notes. “In [Jean Paul Gaultier] Le Mâle Elixir and Le Mâle Elixir Absolu, for example, the warm tonka bean, labdanum and benzoin enrich the base, supporting the fragrance’s persistence long after the fresher opening notes have softened.”
A basic rule to follow when searching for a significant scent is to look for a higher concentration of “juice”—the fragrance format such as perfume extrait or eau de parfum—combined with richer base notes. Says Bisch: “A well-balanced pyramid ensures that after the brighter top notes fade, the heart and base note continue to evolve, giving the wearer a scent that accompanies them throughout the day.”
There’s another important element to consider when it comes to scent longevity, one that has little to do with the perfume type: a person’sunique skin pH. Lev Glazman, co-founder of fragrance brand The Maker, explains: “Everybody’s body chemistry is different, and that can influence how certain fragrance notes develop on the skin. Some people naturally amplify musky tones, while others may bring out more floral or spicy elements.” And so, he adds, a particular perfume that smells one way on a tester blotter can change completely when applied to the skin.
“That’s why it’s important to choose a fragrance that harmonizes with your individual body chemistry,” explains the perfume pro, who develops the brand’s bestselling scents, including Lover, with longevity as a top priority. “That’s why The Maker scents have a concentration of 25 to 35 per cent, which are technically considered an extrait over an eau de parfum.”
In addition to a person’s pH, there is an interesting lifestyle aspect that can play into perfume performance. According to Stegemann, a person’s diet can also impact the overall scent and longevity of a fragrance on skin: “If you love spicy food like I do, I’m obsessed with chili and heat, that can subtly change how a fragrance blooms on your skin. Everyone’s chemistry is unique, and that’s what makes perfume so personal. It becomes part of you.”
Exactly where a perfume is applied to the body is yet another element that can impact how well it wears over time.“On the skin, it develops in harmony with body heat, especially on pulse points,” says Bisch. Key application areas include the wrists, neck and behind the ears. (A perfumer also once advised me to apply it behind the knees, too.)
For those who find their favourite scent slips away frustratingly fast, Glazman suggests simply keeping a travel-sized fragrance handy in order to “refresh the scent” while on the go.
Sometimes, only a fresh spritz will do. —Aleesha Harris
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