The Silhouette Of Scrutiny: Somaya Ahmadi On Fashioning Resilience

Vancouver-based designer Somaya Ahmadi is moving past the seams to explore the complex relationship between women’s bodies and societal expectations. Following the success of her previous collection, Zanan-e-Azad, the founder of Somaya Fashion Studio is preparing to debut her latest work, BODIES IN QUESTION, at Vancouver Fashion Week on April 9th.

We sat down with Somaya to discuss her creative process and how her new collection uses both mature and young models to reflect the evolution of identity across generations. From examining inherited memory to challenging historical definitions of the female form, Ahmadi is crafting a runway experience that asks: what survives when definitions are imposed upon us? —Noa Nichol

Your previous work, Zanan-e-Azad, focused on women’s resilience. How does your new collection, BODIES IN QUESTION, push that narrative further into the realm of external scrutiny and expectation?

My previous collection, Zanan-e-Azad, focused on resilience — the strength women carry even when facing restriction and adversity. With BODIES IN QUESTION, I wanted to move deeper into the conversation by examining the external forces that shape how women exist in the world. It looks at how women’s bodies are constantly observed, judged, and defined by expectations that come from society, culture, and history. The collection asks what remains of identity when these pressures exist, and how women reclaim space within them.

You mention that women’s bodies are shaped by “inherited memory”. How do you translate something as intangible as memory into the structural design and fabric choices of a garment?

I think of inherited memory as something carried in posture, behavior, and even in the way women move through space. In the collection, structure plays an important role — strong shoulders and controlled silhouettes represent the weight of expectations that women inherit across generations. At the same time, moments of softness appear through draping and movement in the garments. These contrasts reflect how memory and experience are layered into the body over time.

By featuring both mature and young models, you’re highlighting how identity evolves. How did this influence the tailoring and silhouettes?

Including both mature and young models was very intentional. I wanted the runway to show how strength, presence, and identity evolve across different stages of life. When you see the same silhouettes worn by women of different generations, the garments begin to tell different stories. It becomes less about the clothing itself and more about the lived experiences that each woman carries.

History has often sought to “observe, judge, and control” women’s bodies. Is there a specific design element that acts as a metaphor for that pressure?

Yes, structure is a key metaphor in this collection. Tailoring and defined silhouettes represent the systems that attempt to shape and contain women. But the garments are not about restriction — they are about transformation. Even within structure there is movement, and that reflects how women adapt, resist, and redefine themselves within those expectations.

Your collection asks what remains when definitions are imposed. In your view, how can fashion help reclaim identity?

Fashion has always been a powerful tool for expression and identity. When a woman chooses how she presents herself, she is reclaiming agency over her own narrative. For me, design becomes a way of questioning imposed definitions and offering new possibilities for how women occupy space. Clothing can communicate strength, presence, and individuality without saying a word.

How does Vancouver’s culture influence the “quiet luxury” or resilience themes found in your work?

Vancouver has a very unique creative environment. It’s a city that values individuality but also subtlety, which I find very inspiring as a designer. There is a quiet confidence here that influences the way I approach design. I’m drawn to refined silhouettes and thoughtful details rather than excess, which aligns with the idea of strength that doesn’t need to announce itself loudly.

With Vancouver Fashion Week approaching, what can the audience expect from the atmosphere of the BODIES IN QUESTION runway show?

The show is designed to feel contemplative and powerful at the same time. I want the audience to experience the collection as a visual dialogue rather than just a sequence of looks. There will be a sense of tension between structure and softness, reflecting the themes of scrutiny and resilience within the collection.

Looking back at your 2025 portfolio, what is the most significant design shift in this collection?

This collection pushes further into tailoring and architectural structure. In my earlier work, the storytelling was often expressed through symbolic gestures and dramatic moments. With BODIES IN QUESTION, the narrative is embedded more deeply in the construction of the garments themselves. The structure, silhouette, and proportion all contribute to the story.

If your designs act as armor against scrutiny, what do they protect and what do they reveal?

They protect the idea of personal identity — the right for women to define themselves rather than being defined by others. At the same time, they reveal resilience. The garments are not hiding the body but empowering it to stand confidently within its own presence.

If you could choose one word that defines the survival of female identity in 2026, what would it be?

Autonomy.

Women continue to push boundaries in defining who they are and how they want to exist in the world. That sense of autonomy — the ability to claim space, voice, and identity — is something I hope continues to grow.