Back To The Classics: The Return Of Refined, No-Excess French Cooking

At a time when fine dining can feel over-the-top (and overpriced), St. Lawrence is quietly doing something different—and deeply compelling. Chef JC’s latest seasonal menu leans into cuisine bourgeoise with a modern sensibility: less flash, more focus, and an unwavering respect for exceptional ingredients. We caught up with the chef to talk evolution over reinvention, the art of restraint, and why classic French cooking feels more relevant than ever. —Noa Nichol

You’ve described this menu as an evolution rather than a shift—what does “more restraint and clarity” look like on the plate for you right now?

For me, it’s about removing anything that doesn’t need to be there. I’m trying to say more with less. On the plate, it means fewer components, but each one is very precise. The cooking is tighter, the seasoning is sharper, and the intention is clearer. You taste the product first, then the sauce, and everything comes together in a very natural way.

Cuisine bourgeoise feels like a return to something timeless—why do you think this style of cooking resonates so strongly in this moment?

I think people are looking for something real. Cuisine bourgeoise is rooted in tradition, but when it’s done properly, it feels very current. It’s comforting without being heavy, refined without being complicated. It’s food that makes sense right away, but still has depth and precision behind it. While classic French felt heavy for most people, cuisine bourgeoise is the newer version; lighter, sharper but as delicious.

Your dishes highlight exceptional ingredients like Hiramasa, king salmon, and Iberico pork—how do you decide when to let the product lead versus when to showcase technique?

The product always leads. If the ingredient is exceptional, my role is to support it and cook it properly. With something like king salmon or Iberico pork, you don’t need to do much, just precision and control.

Technique is always there, but it stays in the background. It’s about how you cook, how you season, how you build the sauce. We’re also very fortunate to work with incredible producers like La Canadière in Quebec and farms like Glorious Organic, Cropthorne, Athiana Accres, among others. These products already have a strong identity, so the goal is to respect that and let it come through.

Your sauces are often the soul of the dish—how do you approach building depth and balance without overwhelming the main ingredient?

The sauce is where everything connects, that’s where I start when creating new dishes, but it has to stay in balance. I’m always thinking about fat, acidity, salinity, and how they work together.

I build depth, but I keep the texture light and the seasoning very precise. The sauce should elevate the product, not dominate it. When it’s right, it doesn’t feel like a separate element, it just makes everything taste more complete.

At $110 per person, this menu offers remarkable value for the level of dining—how do you think about creating a high-end experience that still feels accessible?

For me, it’s about offering something that feels both high-level and natural at the same time. The quality is there—the ingredients, the technique, the service, the wine, but it should never feel intimidating.

I want people to feel comfortable coming in, enjoying the meal, and coming back regularly. It shouldn’t feel reserved only for special occasions. The experience should be generous, warm, and alive.

At that price point, I believe we’re offering something very strong for the level of cooking and product we’re working with. It’s important to me that a Michelin-star restaurant can still feel approachable, something people can connect with in a real way.

When guests leave the table, what do you hope they remember most: the flavours, the feeling, or something deeper about the experience?

It’s the feeling. The flavours are the foundation, but what stays with people is how they felt during the meal.

If the experience felt natural, if they felt taken care of, if the food made sense from beginning to end, that’s what matters most. Something that stays with you in a quiet way, without trying too hard.