New Nosh: The Courtney Room

When a restaurant imports a specialized meat fridge from overseas, you know it’s poised for greatness.

In fact, one look at The Courtney Room’s plethora of cured, fermented and dry-aged offerings had us swooning before we even tasted a thing. Situated in Victoria’s enchanting Magnolia Hotel, the exquisite space is draped in elements inspired by the brasseries and notorious inns of old Paris. Find beaded curtains, linger-worthy leather banquettes and gold accents alongside statement expressionist pieces by local artist Blu Smith and a glass enclosure displaying carefully curated wine selections on fantastic floating shelves. Leading the passionate and hospitality driven crew is chef Sam Harris, whose seasonally forward menu marries local ingredients with a French flair.

To keep our glass of Stella Maris by Pender Harbour-based Sea Star Vineyards company, we savoured (and loved) a perfect serving of cured steelhead, artfully placed atop pickled turnip noodles and tiny Vancouver Island-foraged mushrooms. Next, a summer salad speckled with garden-fresh veg from local growers like Umi Nami Farm and Saanich Organics, and lamb sausage over Foxglove Farm’s carrot puree.

With many more temptations to discover (including a ve-course chef’s tasting menu and cocktails galore), we’re already scheming up our next visit—whether we have to plane, ferry or automobile to get there! —Rachel Johnston

The Courtney Room, 619 Courtney St., Victoria, 250- 940-4090, thecourtneyroom.com

Photos by Leila Kwok